The Sunday Telegraph - Sunday

The Mean-Eyed Cat, Newcastle upon Tyne

- A Thing Called Love. Alastair Gilmour Mean-Eyed Cat.

Johnny Cash is following me around the room. Not in the flesh, obviously; but his gimlet eye oversees every move at the Mean-Eyed Cat in Newcastle.

The pub is located at one end of a striking Georgian terrace. The tag-line, “A very small independen­t bar, just left of centre” pins it accurately. It’s named after a song the Man in Black recorded for Sun Records back in 1955 (it wasn’t released until 1960, by which time Cash had left the label). A copy of the disc hangs on the wall.

Unlike the funereal Mr Cash, The Mean-Eyed Cat is colourful in every sense. Yellow, deep blue and terracotta lend the interior a Tex-Mex feel. Owners Dave and Julie Campbell have let their creative urges loose, covering the walls and soft furnishing­s with all manner of musictheme­d parapherna­lia. One social media post described it as: “What my dad did with the house after Mam left”.

Whimsy might put a smile on your face, but there’s a real seriousnes­s to this pub’s beer choice; profession­alism and customer care. Seven keg taps satisfy the adventurou­s soul, while six cask beers cater for the traditiona­lists. Front and centre just now are Cramped from Newcastle-based Almasty and White Rat from Rat Brewery in Huddersfie­ld.

In between, sits a rotation of pale ales, IPAs and full-bodied stouts or porters – overwhelmi­ngly local, from, for example, Errant and Out There breweries.

A spirits shelf is ripe with promise for cocktail aficionado­s; wine leans towards Spain, Argentina and New Zealand; and a “sour fridge” is an inspired addition, with the likes of Das Ist Techno Sex passion fruit gose (an unfiltered wheat beer) hardly touching the sides. Capacity has been halved, track-and-trace is in place, some furniture removed. It’s table service from masked staff. But a Cat’s a cat for a’that – its spirit and sense of style endure.

Two White Rats and a Wylam Macchiato porter later, I spot a Cash album in the charity shop next door. I buy it, even though it doesn’t include

It’s 1 St Thomas’ Street, Newcastle upon Tyne NE1 4LE: 0191 222 0952; meaneyedca­t.co.uk

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