The Sunday Telegraph - Sunday

NATCHEZ TRACE PARKWAY, US

- Paul Wade

The Natchez Trace Parkway is a dream ride through three states: a 444-milelong, bike-friendly route running between Natchez, Mississipp­i and Nashville, Tennessee.

WHY IT’S SPECIAL

A National Scenic Byway, an All-American Road and a National Park (nps.gov): like trophies on a shelf, these designatio­ns confirm the importance of the Natchez Trace (scenictrac­e.com). While the Trace scores for history, archaeolog­y, recreation and unspoilt nature, it also scores for fun. What was originally an American Indian trail was later used by European settlers. Today, it runs north-east from the lower Mississipp­i river, cuts across a corner of Alabama and continues into the Tennessee hills. It takes in peaceful farmland and forests of oak, pine, beech and hickory; it passes sites including Vicksburg’s Civil War battlefiel­d, prehistori­c American Indian burial mounds, and Elvis’s birthplace in Tupelo. There are no traffic lights, no stop signs, no billboards, no entry fees and no commercial traffic. However, private cars, RVs (motorhomes) and motorcycle­s are allowed, though their speed is limited

to 50mph. Pedal a few miles or the entire length: it’s a trail for all abilities.

YOU’LL NEVER FORGET... Pedalling through the ghost town of Rocky Springs, spotting an alligator in a cypress swamp, eating barbecue and catfish – and the camaraderi­e of cyclists.

INSIDER TIP

Along the Trace, mile markers serve as locators. So, MM 0 is in Natchez; Nashville is MM 444. Along the way attraction­s, campsites and so on are signposted by the nearest mile marker.

HOW TO DO IT

It is easy to combine a visit to Nashville (visitmusic­city.com), New Orleans (neworleans.com) or Natchez (visitnatch­ez.org) with a week on the Trace. Get tips from websites, such as the National Park Service (nps.gov) and Natchez Trace Travel (natcheztra­cetravel.com). Prepare for each day with adequate clothing, water, snacks and sun protection; remember that mobile/cell service can be patchy. In Nashville, rent bikes from Trace Bikes (tracebikes.com); in Natchez, from Trippe’s Bike Shop (001 601 445 4186).

If you don’t want to plan the trip yourself, specialist cycle tour operator VBT (001 802 453 4811; vbt.com) offers “Mississipp­i: The Natchez Trace” guided tours. Five nights from Jackson to Natchez from $1,995 (£1,462) including bicycles and helmets, lodging in antebellum inns and luggage transport. E-bikes are available; flights not included.

 ??  ?? American beauty is shown at its finest with the colours of the Fall
American beauty is shown at its finest with the colours of the Fall

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