The Sunday Telegraph - Sunday

THE PALACE ON WHEELS, INDIA

- Gill Charlton

Journey on a vintage train through Rajasthan, a land of flamboyant Rajput palaces, forts, and colourful villages.

WHY IT’S SPECIAL

The Palace on Wheels evokes the days when maharajahs and viceroys rode the rails in carriages hung with silk and satin, drinking whisky late into the night after a silver-service dinner. The sense of a convivial house party on wheels continues today, thanks to the wonderful profession­al crew for whom nothing is too much trouble.

The train leaves Delhi on Wednesdays to tour the highlights of Rajasthan: the great princely capitals of Jaipur, Udaipur and Jodhpur, the fairytale walled desert city of Jaisalmer, and the ethereal Taj Mahal in Agra. Along the way there are excursions to the tiger reserve at Ranthambor­e and the bird sanctuary at Bharatpur, lunches on former royal estates, and carefully curated city sightseein­g tours. Skip the organised shopping in Jaipur. Instead opt for the Kanota in the grounds of Narain Niwas Palace for covetable shawls and homewares at Hot Pink, Andraab and

Anantaya, and a cocktail at Bar Palladio.

The train packs a lot into a week, and does away with the bother of changing hotels. Unlike on normal trains, staff clean the picture windows regularly so you can see the view.

YOU’LL NEVER FORGET… Watching the setting sun bathe the mud-brick villages of the Aravalli Hills in a rich, golden light as “dust hour” approaches, when cattle make their way home from pasture and women in jewel-coloured saris gather at the well.

INSIDER TIP

The 38 staterooms have small wardrobes with few hangers, so travel light. Suitcases are best tucked beneath beds.

HOW TO DO IT

The Palace on Wheels (020 3239 0008; palaceonwh­eels.com) departs Delhi on Wednesdays from September-April. Booked direct, a seven-night trip costs from £2,800pp. If you prefer to be looked after as soon as you step off the flight, opt for a package deal with a rail specialist. Railbooker­s (020 3780 2222; railbooker­s.co.uk) has a 10-day package including two nights in Delhi and transfers from £3,949 excluding flights. Great Rail Journeys (greatrail.com) combines the Palace on Wheels with the toy train to the hill station of Shimla to create a 15-day holiday from £4,995.

 ??  ?? i You have to take your turban off to the dedicated staff of the Palace on Wheels
i You have to take your turban off to the dedicated staff of the Palace on Wheels

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