Angela Hartnett on the crisp, fresh joy of spring vegetables

Asparagus, watercress and peas deliver a vibrancy we need at the moment, says Angela Hartnett, so ramp up the colour

Though it feels like we’ve taken a step back into winter, especially after the wonderfully warm weather we enjoyed last week, we’re still beginning to see a lot of spring produce hit the shelves.

In Italy, I would expect to see early broad beans, asparagus and wild garlic cropping up in the markets already – produce tends to come into season a little earlier over there, which is great for chefs who want to get their hands on them for their spring menus. Of course, with restaurants still closed for the time being, this sadly isn’t such an issue this year.

If you can’t find fresh broad beans or peas just yet, frozen will be perfect for the recipes on these pages – the point is to treat them lightly, ensuring they retain their vibrant greenness.

I love how lively produce is at this time of year, exactly what we need after a winter of slowbraised meats and roasted root vegetables. I’ve kept these recipes quick, light and mostly meat-free; soups, frittatas, pastas and salads are the perfect vehicles to let the freshness of spring vegetables shine.

I like to use herbs all year round in my cooking, but in the spring I swap hardy sprigs of rosemary and thyme for soft herbs such as dill, basil and tarragon. Add a few sprigs to a dish at the very last minute for an extra burst of flavour. With gardening becoming such a popular pastime over lockdown, no doubt many of us will have a pot of something growing on the windowsill.

Though it’s still a little chilly to coax me outside for a picnic, I’ll be celebrating springtime in my kitchen, most likely with a delicious bowlful of something bright and green.