The Sunday Telegraph - Sunday

ANDALUCIA’S LOVELIEST NATIONAL PARK

- Isabella Noble

Get lost among the eerily beautiful, Unesco-listed woodlands, rivers and wetlands of Doñana National Park – the last stronghold of the Iberian lynx. Then explore the sand-carpeted pilgrimage village of El Rocío.

WHY IT’S SPECIAL Flamingos dancing through the air, the shimmer of the Guadalquiv­ir delta’s wetlands, footprints left by a bewilderin­g range of wildlife – it’s easy to see why Andalucia’s 210 sq mile Parque Nacional de Doñana captures hearts. You’re likely to spy wild boars, deer and countless species of birds on a 4x4 jaunt. You can also go horse-riding and birdwatchi­ng through the buffer area, or relax on protected white beaches, before a traditiona­l meal at Restaurant­e Toruño in sandswept El Rocío.

In fact El Rocío, about 50 miles south-west of Seville, is an attraction in its own right. The village’s streets burst into a riot of colour at weekends and for the Romería del Rocío – Spain’s most celebrated pilgrimage festival.

YOU’LL NEVER FORGET… Sunset over the marismas (wetlands) at El Rocío, where flamingos gather – and, if you’re lucky, spotting an Iberian lynx.

INSIDER TIP

You’re free to access the sweeping national park beaches between the seaside resort town of Matalascañ­as and the mouth of the Guadalquiv­ir. There’s another lovely beach, framed by cliffs below the Parador de Mazagón, at the western end of the park buffer area.

HOW TO DO IT

The national park is accessible only on pre-booked 4x4 group safaris from the El Rocío area, or on boat-and-jeep combinatio­n trips from Sanlúcar de Barrameda (across the Guadalquiv­ir in Cádiz province). Licensed operators include Cooperativ­a Marismas del Rocío (donanavisi­tas.es), Doñana Reservas (donanarese­rvas.com) and Viajes Doñana (viajesdona­na.es; also runs private Jeep tours). English-speaking guides are available on request.

In El Rocío village, stay at long-running Hotel Toruño, with its excellent restaurant (toruno.es), or at the elegantly converted manor house La Malvasía (hotellamal­vasia.com). If you’re visiting from Sanlúcar, La Alcoba del Agua is the perfect boutique base (laalcobade­lagua. com). Fly into Seville or Jerez de la Frontera, then drive to the Doñana area.

 ??  ?? i The rein in Spain: a rider in El Rocío
i The rein in Spain: a rider in El Rocío

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