THROUGH THE PAST DARKLY: SAVANNAH & CHARLESTON
These two elegant historic cities of the Deep South provide a magical history tour of grace, style and southern cooking – and a powerful dark history.
WHY IT’S SPECIAL
Like Andalucia’s Seville and Granada, Charleston and Savannah are exemplars of hundreds of years of regional culture, from their founding as British colonies to pre-eminent port cities of the Old South and finally as modern, attraction-packed destinations – with fabulous food. Although split between Georgia and South Carolina, they’re just 100 miles apart and both exude charm.
The town named for Charles II was founded in 1670 and retains much of its period structure, from its cobblestone streets and Georgian architecture to evocative highlights like the Battery and Fort Sumter, scene of the Civil War’s opening battle. Savannah’s ordered 1730s profile is equally compelling, built around ornate squares of gracious gardens and Antebellum mansions that are easy to explore on foot. Of course, as
cities steeped in 18th-century slavery, they have a seamy side that deserves full exposition, such as at Middleton Place Plantation outside Charleston, with its Beyond the Fields tour. Dining is a special pleasure, though, with delicious variations on traditional Southern fare.
YOU’LL NEVER FORGET… Although it’s tough to digest, the story of Middleton Place – Charleston’s largest slave-owning plantation – is a powerful tale of real-life 18th-century slavery.
INSIDER TIP
There’s often a wait for Mrs Wilkes’ Dining Room in Savannah as it doesn’t take reservations, but it’s worth it for the home-made Southern goodness (note: it only accepts cash).
HOW TO DO IT
Fly from London with British Airways, Virgin or Delta to Atlanta, from where it’s a three-and-a-half-hour drive to Savannah. The beautifully restored 1851 Marshall House hotel (marshallhouse.com) is ideally situated in the heart of the historic downtown. It’s a near two-hour drive to Charleston, and the French Quarter Inn (fqicharleston.com) is a superb boutique choice just off Market Street. On the 300-mile return to Atlanta, Augusta is a convenient stopping point for its Civil War history and lively modern riverfront. Be sure to check out the River Watch Brewery and its unique peach beer.