Who knew the delights of Africa were so close to home?
Claire Irvin gets that warm safari feeling on an overnight stay at Longleat in Wiltshire
Last night I dreamed of Africa... at least, I dreamed I was in Africa. Perhaps hardly surprising, given that earlier the same evening I’d shared my sundowner moment with a herd of zebra grazing just a few feet from me, and had awoken to find a passing Rothschild giraffe eyeballing me through the bathroom window.
As I gazed out across the dusty plain, the rising sun lifting the temperature above zero almost faster than I could brew my coffee, watching wandering wildebeest and an ostrich try to goad a gracefully slo-mo giraffe into a race, the scene in front of me could indeed have been straight from the savannah. Instead, the sun-baked hills I was staring at were in Wiltshire, on the Longleat estate, and the wildlife the lucky inhabitants of its safari park.
Built in the 16th century and home to the Marquesses of Bath, Longleat has been welcoming visitors for more than 400 years. In 1949 it became the first stately home in Britain to open its doors to the public, and was the first place with a drive-through safari park that wasn’t in Africa. Incredibly, it is only now that the park has introduced the option to stay overnight, either in the grounds of the house or within the safari park. It was worth the wait.
Originally one dwelling, Keeper’s House and the adjoining Keeper’s Cottage once housed the park keeper. In its latest metamorphosis, full use has been made of views over the park’s East African Reserve, and it is, as we were to discover, a favourite grazing spot, as well as perfectly placed for sunrise and sunset.
Inside Keeper’s House, the refurb is triumphant, drawing heavily on the building’s role on the estate over the years. A cosy, earthy palette, stylishly overstuffed sofas and cocoon-like beds are accessorised with objects, vintage books and photographs carefully curated from the Longleat archives.
Dualit gadgets and Le Creuset cookware sit atop the kitchen work surfaces, and there is also a free-standing bath in which to lose yourself, as well as a comfortable bed that resulted in my best night’s sleep for months.
A super-loaded breakfast hamper awaited us, alongside a sumptuous afternoon tea. So full of sandwiches and scones were we that we bypassed the opportunity to order in from the array of local takeaways which have after-hours security clearance to the park. Instead, we settled in to watch the wildlife documentary on our doorstep, and for once the only screen time requested by the children was via the telescope.
After-hours access also means being able to explore Longleat’s stunning formal gardens and decorative mazes alone, and all guests have a private VIP safari tour as part of their package, which guarantees closer proximity to the animals via off-road access (at a stress-free distance) and, in the case of Richard, our gentle and intuitive guide, engaging storytelling giving a characterful insight into the various species.
We left high on nature. And tonight, I shall dream of Africa. The small part sitting in a country estate in Wiltshire, that is, and our return visit – which I hope won’t be too long away.
Keeper’s House, sleeps four, from £750 per night (longleat.co.uk). For more tales of adventure at Longleat, see our online version at telegraph.co.uk/tt-longleat.
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