Really wild adventures – and not a ski lift in sight
Look beyond the obvious and you will find magic in the French Alps, says Paul Webster
Ask people to imagine the French Alps, and many will think of ski resorts set high among majestic peaks, with clear blue skies and perfect powder snow. The Chamonix valley has developed a big reputation for summer adventure tourism, and the beauty of Lake Annecy is justly renowned. Yet beyond these obvious destinations, there is a much wilder, less-known and more magical land just waiting to be discovered. With a little effort and imagination, it is easy to get beyond the familiar and discover your own natural paradise.
The fact is that the French Alps are simply among the most beautiful places on Earth. Here are lands crammed with towering mountains, passes to cross, mountain lakes to swim in and secret valleys to explore. There are forests and gleaming white cliffs, dramatic gorges and mysterious caves. This is the home of the ibex and chamois, wolf and wild boar, with rare vultures and eagles soaring overhead and never a ski lift in sight.
FOR WILD SWIMMING
Cascade Blanche (Vercors)
The Vernaison river emerges from its journey through the Petits Goulets gorge to cascade down a semi-circular waterfall into a deep pool perfect for diving and swimming. The surrounding lush undergrowth and trees give this hidden spot a tropical feel. Further downstream there are shallow pools suitable for toddlers’ paddling.
HOW TO DO IT: D518 to Sainte-Eulalieen-Royans, turn north down minor road and pass the Sorea building. Just after this, walk down the track on the right, later forking right on to a steep path leading down to the river.
FOR MOUNTAIN SCENERY Chemin De l’Energie (Mercantour Alps)
This extraordinary balcony path cut through incredibly difficult mountainous terrain owes its existence to an ambitious engineering project at the start of the 20th century. At the time, each French region had to produce its own electricity; this path was built to supply workers and materials to a scheme to harness the hydro power of the high lakes. In the end the project was abandoned, and walkers can now take advantage of 8km of near-horizontal path and tunnels to explore an otherwise inaccessible landscape.
HOW TO DO IT: The Chemin de l’Energie runs high across the slopes on the east side of the Upper Tinée, from near Lac des Babarottes to the Refuge de Rabuons and can be combined into a number of single or multi-day hikes. For the shortest approach, reach it by climbing the path from Saint-Étienne-de-Tinée.
FOR MOUNTAIN VILLAGES Prapic (Champsaur, Valgaudemar & Valbonnais)
Nestled at the head of the Drac Noir valley, this picturesque hamlet has cobbled streets, lined with ancient stone houses topped by attics with walls of woven sticks to keep the stored harvest dry. The church was built in the 1860s in response to a plea from villagers who were having to make the long, arduous journey to worship at Orcières – no mean feat in the dead of winter. Seek out the stainedglass window dedicated to Jean Sarrazin, a local known as the olive tree poet. A gateway to the Écrins National Park, numerous hikes set out from here. The garden of the Auberge de la Jabiore is the perfect place for a homemade sorbet.
HOW TO DO IT: In the summer, a regular shuttle bus operates from Orcières, allowing a one-way hike or car-free day. Otherwise take D474 to the car park just outside Prapic and continue to the hamlet on foot.
FOR CYCLING Col de l’Iseran (Haute Maurienne)
Cycle in the slipstream of legends on the highest surfaced col in the Alps. The Col de l’Iseran first featured on the Tour de France in 1938, and seven times subsequently. It’s also popular with hikers as the GR5 crosses here – the highest point on its 660km journey from Lake Léman to the Med. The stone chapel of NotreDame-de-Toute-Prudence provides an atmospheric place for travellers to give thanks for their safe journey. HOW TO DO IT: Take D902 from Val-d’Isère for 15km at an average of 6 per cent (some cyclists tackle it from Bourg-St-Maurice for a total of 48km); or from Bonneval-sur-Arc in the south for 13.4km at an average of 7.3 per cent.
FOR FORTS & CHATEAUX Fort Central Du Col De Tende (Mercantour)
Located in Italy until the border was moved in 1947, this 19th-century fort was one of a line of defensive forts protecting the Col de Tende. The pass has a long history as a trade route, originally for valuable salt. The vastness of the old military buildings here is testa
ment to its vital importance. Wander around the former barracks and clamber up on to the earth ramparts that protected the complex on three sides. Abandoned after the Second World War, these days the fort provides a goal for mountain bikers and summer grazing for sheep.
HOW TO DO IT: Col de Tende is bypassed by a road tunnel. From Tende, take D6204 into Italy and turn left after the tunnel, pass through Panice Soprana and continue to the Col where there is limited parking (access from the French side is 4x4 only). Walk back along the road for 50m, turn left and follow the track to the fort.
FOR NATURE & WILDLIFE Lac Des Garrets (Mercantour)
Herds of ibex with curved horns can be seen grazing the hillsides above this rounded lake, showing their remarkable ability to negotiate almost any gradient or terrain. The Lac des Garrets is a highlight on the Three Lakes walk from the Col de la Cayolle, which first visits the Lac de la Petite Cayolle, and gives a panoramic view over Lac d’Allos from near the Pas du Lausson.
HOW TO DO IT: Park at Col de la Cayolle. Take the signed path to Col de Petit Cayolle; turn left on a path across the screes above Lac de la Petite Cayolle to reach Lac des Garrets. To make a circuit, cross the Plateau du Lausson to Pas du Lausson, then turn left onto a path that descends to return to the start.
FOR ANCIENT & SACRED Le Clocher De Méolans (Ubaye & Embrunais)
Standing proud on an isolated rocky crag, this 16th-century bell tower offers beautiful sunset views at dusk. It was built to call worshippers to church in the hamlet of Méolans. The church no longer stands, but the bell tower continues to toll out the hour. Follow the signed path from Méolans, with its ancient houses and narrow walkways. The path is steep and rocky near the top: take care with children.
HOW TO DO IT: Take D900 west from Barcelonnette, turn left at La Fresquière, cross the Ubaye and follow D27 to Méolans, where there is parking on the left. A signed path to the bell tower heads up between houses on the far side of the road.
FOR LOCAL PRODUCE Fromagerie De La Grand’mèche (Vercors)
A small queue often forms before the evening opening, as farmers Didier and Pierre’s cheeses are highly prized locally. Take away slabs of Bleu du Vercors Sassenage, Saint Marcellin, and Anlou, or the creamy cheese simply
called Surprise. Yoghurts, faiselles and fromage blanc are also available. Arrive just before 5pm and it is sometimes possible to watch as Didier or Pierre milk the small herd of Abondance and Montbéliarde cows. You can also catch up with them at the Lans-en-Vercors market on Saturday mornings.
HOW TO DO IT: Turn east off D591 between Lans and Villard where it’s signed for Les Françons. Turn left at the crossroads in the hamlet; the fromagerie is on the right. Mon–Sat 5–7, Sun 5–6. Les Françons, 38250 Lans-en-Vercors.
FOR RUSTIC EATS & SLEEPS
Cabanes Perchées Du Boréon
(Mercantour)
This is wolf country, so what better place to sleep than high in the tree canopy
in one of two treehouses? Enjoy a lazy breakfast on the balcony with a bird’s-eye view of the valley below. Hidden away beyond the end of the public road these luxury retreats make a great base for exploring the remote high Boréon valley and its wildlife.
HOW TO DO IT: Driving up past Le Boréon, turn right after the animal park and continue to the car park. The cabins are signed (but advance booking required). 06450 St Martin de Vésubie.
FOR CAMPING & MOUNTAIN REFUGES
Camping D’alpage Les Jorets
(Beaufortain)
We loved this friendly, rustic campsite perched on a high meadow with breathtaking views of Mont Blanc. Drag your
self away from the view and explore the surrounding scenery on foot, or just enjoy being in the midst of an Alpine alpage and befriend visiting marmots. HOW TO DO IT: The campsite is accessed by a steep, unsurfaced track forbidden to campervans; many walk from the nearby Col de la Lézette (15 mins). Booking recommended as there are only a few pitches. Col de la Lézette, Route des Crêtes, 73620 Hauteluce.
Overseas holidays are subject to restrictions. See Page 3.
Wild Guide French Alps by Paul Webster (Wild Things Publishing, £18.99). Buy it now for £16.99 at books.telegraph.co.uk or call 0844 871 1514.