CULTURE FIX
It may have lost its political status to Ankara in 1923 – when modern Turkey rose, Phoenix-like, from the ashes of the Ottoman Empire – but Istanbul remains the cultural capital of today’s republic. Spend a morning admiring the exhibits of exquisite calligraphy, carpets and tents in the Museum of Turkish and Islamic Arts in the shadow of the magnificent Blue Mosque to get a feel for Turkey’s nomadic and Islamic roots.
By way of contrast, head across the Golden Horn to wander around waterfront Istanbul Modern, a converted warehouse gallery that wouldn’t look out of place in London or New York.
Istanbul holds a Biennial every odd year, with numerous festivals dotted throughout the year devoted to film, jazz, classical music and contemporary art – as well as many permanent venues for all these art forms. For an insight into more traditional Turkish culture, visit a domed Ottoman-era hamam (Turkish bath) or watch the dervishes whirl at a Mevlevi ceremony.
More esoteric is the Kirkpinar greasewrestling festival held near the GreekBulgarian frontier, and the Kafkasor festival held in the remote Black Sea mountains, a genuine folk event which sees much drinking and dancing to traditional Turkish music. Over on the Mediterranean coast the Aspendos Opera and Ballet Festival near Antalya is magnificently staged in a Roman theatre, while Antalya itself is home to the annual Golden Orange Film Festival.
To explore Istanbul’s Byzantine and Ottoman treasures fly to Istanbul with Turkish Airlines (turkishairlines.com) or Pegasus ( flypgs.com) from £169 return and stay at the boutique Ibrahim Pasha (ibrahimpasha.com) where double rooms cost from £75pn. Istanbul Tour Studio (0090 212 243 0521; istanbultourstudio.com) offers tailormade tours of Istanbul for around £90pp. Cox and Kings (020 3918 3402; coxandkings.co.uk) offers nine-day tours from £1,295pp including flights