Is it the last supper for the trusty tablecloth?
FROM the banquet halls of kings to the family dining room, a starched white tablecloth over a dinner table used to be the obligatory setting for any meal.
But that domestic staple has fallen out of favour in an era of informal, laidback dining, so much so that John Lewis has placed it on its “dying out” list along with crystal stemmed glasses and formal silverwear.
With the new vogue for stripped wooden tables and the decline in family meals, tablecloths are being bought by fewer and fewer households. John Lewis has reported a 10pc fall in sales of all tablecloths – from white linen to more everyday varieties – compared to last year.
Instead families that do eat together now often use table mats and runners to protect surfaces from hot dishes, leaving the rest of the wood visible.
At the same time, a rise in the sale of trays reflects the growing habit of individual family members eating in front of the TV or computer screen.
The death of the table cloth is not limited to the home. Many of the country’s leading restaurants are also abandoning what customers have come to regard as “stuffy” tablecloths in favour of “fuss-free” bare tables.
Christa Quarles, chief executive booking website OpenTable, told of
“Recently there has been a shift away from formalities like tablecloths and waiters wearing white gloves, which some people now view as a bit stuffy.
“There’s a noticeable shift towards more casual and individual table decorations, even in restaurants serving fine cuisine. What customers really want is a unique experience.”
Shimon Bokovza, chief executive of London restaurant SushiSamba, points out that tablecloths are increasingly disliked by both diners and venue owners left with a huge laundry bill.
Tablecloths were introduced in the late medieval period when spreading a high-quality white linen or cotton cloth was an important part of preparing for a feast in a wealthy household.
The cloths served as a protector for tables made of varnished wood such as mahogany. Over time, the custom of arranging tableware on a cloth became common for people in all walks of life, and during the late Sixties and Seventies new styles were developed.
As well as moving away from tablecloths, families are dispensing with silverware in favour of helping themselves from large bowls and sharing plates. Similarly, crystal glasses have made way for more communal “trattoria” style tumblers.
John Lewis said: “Customers have taken a different approach to dressing their tables this year, often opting for a decorative runner or new placemats rather than a traditional tablecloth to make a statement.
“We’ve seen sales of runners increase 11 per cent this year while tablecloths declined 8 per cent, suggesting that customers are looking for a more agile and affordable way to quickly chop and change the look of their tabletop.”