The Sunday Telegraph

Snooty shop staff and luxury goods are the perfect fit

Indifferen­ce – not smiles – is best for business when it comes to high-end sales, say psychologi­sts

- By Henry Bodkin

WHO can forget the scene in Pretty Woman where Julia Roberts’s character is treated with withering disdain in a Beverly Hills designer store?

Ultimately, the po-faced shop assistants came to rue their “big mistake, huge” in chucking out Vivian Ward, but in terms of their choice of facial expression, science has proved them right.

Psychologi­sts have discovered that when it comes to selling luxury goods, it helps to wear a neutral or even contemptuo­us expression.

A series of experiment­s showed that customers were more likely to judge expensive items as desirable if the people selling them appeared dismissive or uninterest­ed. An unfriendly attitude was found to create a “social distance” which the customer seeks to overcome.

The findings appear to validate what many luxury brands know instinctiv­ely. The atmosphere in couture and other high-end outlets is often noticeably less warm than on the high street.

The study quoted an online review posted by a customer at Loewe’s, a luxury fashion outlet, as saying: “I walk into Loewe’s and there is a collective angst against customers. Loewe’s workers won’t look you in the eye, and they even walk quickly away from you when you walk towards them.”

Published in the Journal of Retailing and Consumer Services, the research also contradict­s less in-depth psychologi­cal studies that led scientists to assume that shop assistants smiling is advantageo­us in all circumstan­ces – the so-called smile principle.

Previous psychologi­cal research has found that the “DNA” of luxury is the symbolic desire to belong to a superior class and keep a distance from people with relatively low social status.

Buying an expensive handbag, for example, overcomes the perceived distance created by the unsmiling shop assistant and promises to create it between the buyer and others without.

However, the experiment­s found that neutral or contemptuo­us expression­s by staff only worked in the case of high-quality goods. They showed that in the case of “mundane” items, a smile or warm countenanc­e helped sales.

The team believes this is because, unlike in the case of luxury goods, there is no advantage in creating a distance between a product and potential buyer.

The scientists at Nanjing University in China said: “Retailers should consider product type when training a frontline employee to manage their facial expression­s.

“We suggest that the mundane products retailers follow the smile principle. However, we do not recommend luxury retailers follow [it].”

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