This week’s dream: returning to Neverland

In the summer of 1920, J.M. Barrie visited Eilean Shona, off the west coast of Scotland, and found in its landscape of “mighty pines and secret coves” the inspiration for Neverland, says Tim Moore in the Financial Times. Today, as you approach by boat across the “dark waters” of Loch Moidart, this small island still “exudes an air of ageless fantasy”. There are only a few, scattered buildings on Eilean Shona, which is privately owned by hoteliers Vanessa Branson (sister of Richard) and her husband, Robert Devereux. There are no cars, no Wi-fi, and just one shop, which is open for two hours a week.

Most of the cottages on the island are now holiday lets. The Old Schoolhouse is a 45-minute walk from the jetty (provisions and luggage are delivered by quad bike). It’s basic in one sense: there is no electricity or mobile phone signal. But with wood fires burning, and bottles “chilling in the propane-powered fridge”, it’s all very comfortable. A highlight is the “vast roll-top bath” beside an arched window, offering up an “epic, unpeopled vista you will claim as your own and never tire of”. Outside lies an “endlessly explorable realm of bluebell woods, gorse-speckled peat bogs” and white sand beaches. You can wander through the ruined crofters’ houses in the valleys; paddle in pristine waters; and look out for wildlife including pine martens, otters and red squirrels.

It does help, of course, if the sun shines while you are here. “In more typical conditions”, what should be a “delightful stroll” can turn into a “windswept slither”. But in fine weather, the days take on a “languid, almost dreamy routine”, from being woken by birdsong, to the hooting of owls that soothes you to sleep. In fact, the “fairy-tale ambience” is so pervading that you begin to wonder why woodland creatures aren’t “skipping in through the window” to help you get dressed. Eilean Shona (www.eileanshona.com) has cottages from £400 per week. The Old Schoolhouse costs £1,250 per week (sleeps four).