This week’s dream: a coast-to-coast walk in southern Corsica

Corsica is beloved by hikers for the GR20, a 15-day, north-south trek along its “high, craggy” mountain spine. It’s considered Europe’s toughest longdistance trail, but this wildly beautiful island is criss-crossed by gentler walking routes too, says Pamela Goodman in the FT – and among the loveliest is the Mare a Mare Sud. Running, as its name suggests, from coast to coast across the southern part of the island, it takes you through spectacular mountains, but can be done in six days, walking for up to six hours a day, by anyone with a decent basic fitness level. The most relaxing way to do it is through a tour operator, who can arrange for your luggage to be transferred between gîtes, leaving you with plenty of energy to relish the “sensational” views and swim in “crystal clear” rock pools along the way.

Starting out from Porto-vecchio on the east coast, you climb at first through wild scrubland, or maquis, where the air is heavy with the scent of wild herbs. Further on, there are forests of giant Corsican pine, and of chestnut and oak, in which “mighty” granite boulders “loom” like prehistoric castles among the trees. The gîtes along the way are simple but clean and comfortable. Food is fairly basic – expect lots of meaty stews, and few vegetables. Still, ingredients for picnics bought at village épiceries can be lovely.

From the “lively” village of Zonza, there are fabulous views of the Aiguilles de Bavella – the “rose-red” granite needles that dominate the landscape of this region, the Alta Rocca. On day four, there’s a steep climb to the high plateau of Ghjallicu, “awash with wild roses and honeysuckle” in summer. And the final days are more arduous still – but replete with wonderful vistas, of picturesque villages such as Serra-di-scopamène and Sainte-lucie-de-tallano, and of Propriano and the “sparkling” Gulf of Valinco, where the trail ends.

Corsican Places (01489-866931, www.corsica.co.uk) has a six-night trip from £1,128pp, including flights.