Kiln What the experts recommend

58 Brewer Street, London W1 (www.kilnsoho.com) Ben Chapman, one of the people behind the “rollicking” Smoking Goat on Denmark Street, was a designer before becoming a chef, says Fay Maschler in the London Evening Standard. Yet he has said that his ideal restaurant is one where it feels as though “the people cooking and serving the food created the place, not some designer”. And at his new northernThai restaurant, he’s pulled it off beautifully. The space is dominated (in a good way) by the open kitchen, which is dominated in turn by a vast wood-burning kiln, where all the clay-pot, barbecue and wok cooking is done. Diners sit nearby, round a curved steel counter, making for a “side-of-the-road” feel. It works – as does the food. Menus change daily, but “I hope roast long pepper and Tamworth (pig) shoulder curry is on when you go, as you should”. Other highlights included smoked sausage; Laos-style (“demonically hot”) pollock; and cuts of fattened hogget, drenched in cumin and fresh Szechuan pepper and grilled to a hot, heady crisp. Meal for two, with wine, about £78.

The Turks Head Low Road, Haskeston, Suffolk (01394-610343) My lunch at The Turks Head was “fine”, says Kathryn Flett in The Daily Telegraph. And when I say that, I don’t mean to damn with faint praise. This charming country pub was a fading local until, about a year ago, it was “rescued, primped and pimped”: now it gets rave write-ups on Tripadvisor, and yes, I liked it very much. The only thing is, I was so busy catching up with my companion, who recently moved to Suffolk, that I scarcely took in the food. We spent two glorious hours in gorgeous autumn sunshine, during which her paella Valencia was absolutely “fine”, and so was my steak sandwich – “tender, perfectly pink and accessorised with fine fat chips”. For puddings we had chocolate brownie and the summer-berry-thing (“yes, nice, thanks”). What, you may be wondering, is the point of a review that “only perfunctorily reviews” the food? The point is that “sometimes fine is perfect”. Come to the The Turks Head and you won’t have to worry: everything will be “absolutely fine”. Lunch for two, about £70.

Jikoni 19-21 Blandford Street, London W1 (020-7034 1988) Ravinder Bhogal’s food is not pretending to be authentically Indian, says Marina O’loughlin in The Guardian. It is merely delicious – and “light years from the usual Brit curry machismo”. Street food favourite bhel is an explosion of sev (crispy noodles), puffed rice, tamarind, rubies of pomegranate, mango, chickpeas and “God knows what else: it’s a riot of flavour and texture”. Cauliflower popcorn – a cross between tempura and Chinese salt’n’pepper – is “dusted” with the thinnest layer of chilli and “translucent fried curry leaves, and entirely addictive”. And it is impossible to resist a main course called “spiced scrag end pie” – a sloppy mess packed with ginger, cinnamon, chilli and cumin. This dish is basically “shepherd’s pie on steroids”, and it’s so tasty I’d be happy to “inhale it through a tube”. Some of the cooking here could be said to have a bit too much “dreamy, creamy” sweetness to it. “But do I like Jikoni? Oh yes.” About £30-£35 a head, plus drinks and service.