The autumnal charms of quince

Originally fr from the Caucasus – where it st still grows wild today – the quince made its journey w west across to the Mediterra Mediterranean regions of Europe, an and then north to the gardens of England. The tree has beautifu beautiful small flowers when it blossoms in t the spring, and the fruit, famous fo for its glorious lemonish colou colour as it ripens, is in season now. You wouldn’t want to eat quinces raw raw, but they make lovely jams an and jellies thanks to their high lev levels of pectins; you can also ad add a single quince to an apple pi pie, or a dish of stewed app apple, to enhance the flavour. The fruit last w well if stored in a cool, dark place such a as a shed or garage. In Denmark, quinces, o or kvæder, are often dried and mixed into te tea, says Trine Hahnemann. I like to m make them into a jam or purée, which I spoo spoon onto my yogurt or porridge in the mornin mornings. But these recipes are also delicious with cheese, or cold roast meats.

Quince purée

1kg quinces, peeled and cored 2 litres water 500g light cane sugar per 1kg purée grated zest and juice of 2 unwaxed lemons • Put the quinces in a saucepan and add the water. Bring to the boil then cover and leave to simmer until the fruit feel very tender when pierced with a small, sharp knife. • Remove the quinces from the water, then weigh them and calculate the sugar quantity needed (see above). Put the fruit in a food processor and blend to a purée. • Transfer the purée to a heavy-based saucepan and add the sugar and the lemon zest and juice. Leave to boil over a low heat, stirring constantly, until the mixture thickens into a jam. • Pour the purée into warmed, sterilised jars and then seal.

Quince-plum “jam”

10 green cardamom pods 2 cinnamon sticks 1 tsp coriander seeds 1.5kg quinces, peeled and cored 2 litres water 750g light cane sugar finely grated zest and juice of 3 lemons 750g plums, stoned • Put all the spices in the centre of a square of muslin, then draw up the edges to create a pouch and secure with string. Place the quinces, water, sugar, lemon zest and juice, and plums in a large saucepan with the spice bag, and bring to the boil. Cover and simmer until the quinces are al dente (test with a small, sharp knife). Using a slotted spoon, remove the quinces and plums from the liquid. Leave to cool. • Reduce the liquid in the pan to 750ml. Remove and discard the spices. Chop the cooled quinces and plums into smaller pieces. Put the quinces back in the boiling reduced syrup and boil for about 60 seconds, thenhen add the plums and bring back to the boil for another 60 seconds. • Pour the hot jam into warmed, sterilised jars and seal. It will keep for months if stored in a cold place.