The Week Wines
Discover the best of Burgundy with Haynes, Hanson & Clark, at better than market prices and free UK delivery as always.
In Victorian times, it was customary for younger sons of the gentry to go into law, the army or the church. These days, it is just as likely to be the wine trade. The eponymous Haynes Hanson & Clark has been around for nearly 40 years, and with shops in London, the Cotswolds and Hampshire, they are thriving. They are also one of the best wine merchants for Burgundy, and for a growing selection of exceptionally balanced wines that do not send you into a stupor induced by high alcohol levels. With personal connections with growers at every level, HH&C promote wines you want to drink because of the sheer pleasure involved in the process – and can provide bottles of the greatest Burgundy domaines, such as Raveneau, Roumier and Dugat-py, if you decide to explore the heights of vinous pleasure.
Chianti Colli Senesi, Campriano 2015 I adored this Chianti, which lacks the harsh edges and toughness that are too often found in cheaper versions of Sangiovese. It is straightforward and harmonious and, unlike many Italian wines, could easily be drunk by itself without any accompaniment. Ownerwinemaker Ranuccio Neri was trained in Bordeaux and California, yet he produces wines that evoke memories of his childhood – so you will find no Cabernet or Merlot grown here. I would drink this now with any robust food, from pork to steak. Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Beaune Rouge, Françoise et Denis Clair 2014 This is a great value Burgundy made from a blend from two areas: one above Saint-aubin, and the other near a commune called Maranges. It has all the attributes I love in Pinot Noir – perfume, purity and elegance, without any heaviness. The secret is the vines themselves: they produce small, thick-skinned berries, and half the plantings are old vines. Ideal with game and light meats.
Morgon Vieilles Vignes Cuvée des Délys, Raymond Bouland 2015 A wine of great character, which comes from a plot of vines planted in 1925. How many people realise that this glorious wine is actually Beaujolais? Gamay is the only grape likely to be confused with Pinot Noir when aged, but in its youth it has more minerality and structure. I’m a fan of aged Morgon, which can easily improve for a decade or more, especially from a great vintage like 2015.
Château du Cros, Bordeaux Sauvignon Blanc 2016 It is strange to recall, but until the 1970s, the majority of wine grown in Bordeaux was from white grapes. This exquisite wine is grown on the top of the slope overlooking the Garonne River, and is named after a ruined English castle in the grounds. The exact opposite of a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, it has a delicate, aromatic, zippy style with a touch of lime. This is not something to lay down – it begs to be drunk immediately, and is perfect either by itself or with shellfish.
Kellerei Kurtatsch, Alto Adige, Pinot Bianco 2015 This distinctive and refreshing wine comes from Alto Adige, in the northernmost part of Italy next to the Austrian border. It has a delightful minerality, thanks to the layers of mountainous rock from which the vine roots draw their nourishment, and has become a serious substitute for those who like the simplicity of Macon, but desire something with more freshness and depth. It would go with a range of salads and cheeses, especially goat’s.
Santenay Blanc, Olivier Leflaive Frères 2014 This relatively rare white Burgundy – only a few hundred cases are made annually – from winemaker Franck Grux comes from an overlooked village next to ChassagneMontrachet, in the Côte de Beaune region. I was impressed with the power and purity of this wine, from one of the greatest recent white Burgundy vintages. Though entering into its drinking zone now, it will continue to improve until the turn of the decade. I would be happy to drink this with a meaty white fish such as turbot, or even roast chicken.