This week’s dream: Kilimanjaro’s peaceful cousin
As the continent’s highest mountain, at around 19,000ft, Kilimanjaro is the African climb “everyone talks about”. But just 213 miles from it lies another peak, Mount Kenya – the continent’s second highest, at just over 17,000ft – that is more beautiful, and less crowded, says Matthew Parris in The Times. On Mount Kenya, you can feel as though you’re on your own “private adventure”. The massif has wonderfully dramatic topography, with jagged snowy ridges and “breathtaking” cliffs, gorges, canyons and waterfalls. And with its unique ecosystem, it bristles with varied and spectacular flora. The way up is not quick, nor easy, and only experienced climbers reach the summit. But if, as an ordinary hiker, you give yourself five days and aim for Point Lenana, about 700ft shy of the top, all the “majesty” of the mountain can still be yours.
Go in the dry season (“during English winter, praise be”) and, if possible, employ a “first-class climb organiser”, who will supply an “army” of guides, porters and cooks. Relax for a couple of days after flying to Nairobi, perhaps by visiting the Ol Pejeta Conservancy, home of the world’s last three remaining northern white rhinos. From there, it’s a pleasant drive to the start of the Chogoria route.
Forest gives way to lush alpine pasture as you ascend, and then stranger plants appear – giant groundsel “like monster cabbages perched atop bare tree trunks”, heather “taller than a man”, and, along the skyline, “ghostly legions” of “triffidlike” giant lobelia. Sunbirds dart among their flowers, and rock rabbits shriek from “stony lookouts” above dazzling glacial lakes. Altitude sickness can defeat even fit hikers, and the penultimate stage is a “tiresome trudge” across volcanic gravel. But the view from the ridge across the plains to the “snowy top” of Kilimanjaro itself is sublime, and provides a euphoric climax. Kenya Treks (07843-273873, www.kenyatreks.com) has a six-night trip from $1,800pp, excl. flights.