This week’s dream: a secret paradise in the Indian Ocean

Beset by poverty and political instability – with more than 20 coups and attempted coups since independence from France in 1975 – the Comoros Islands are not an easy place to live. But for the casual visitor, this archipelagic nation scattered across the Indian Ocean is “a secret slice of paradise”, says Nick Middleton in the FT. True, it lacks the luxury resorts of its better-known island neighbours – but its beaches are just as dazzling, and its jungled, volcanic landscape is lush and spectacular. It also sees far fewer tourists – just 24,000 in 2015, compared with Mauritius’s 1.15 million. And it has a fascinating history and culture – with Arab, African and French influences – making it exceptionally enticing to the adventurous traveller.

In the “languorous” federal capital, Moroni, small boys swim in a tiny harbour in front of the whitewashed Old Mosque, and women tending street stalls wear masks made from sandalwood paste to protect their skin from the sun. The rest of the main island, Grande Comore, is sleepier still – “a blend of small-town Arabia and village Africa”. Corrugated iron houses line potholed roads, where children in smart uniforms amble to school in the heat. In the fishing town of Iconi lies the ruined palace of the islands’ last sultan, banished by the French in 1892.

Spices and flowers are widely farmed here; notably ylang-ylang, a perfumers’ favourite. But Grande Comore is dominated by an active volcano that is cloaked in jungle and grassland. Its peak, at 7,746ft above sea level, is a fine challenge for hikers. Relax afterwards on the north coast, with its “perfect” bays, usually “deserted” save for the odd fisherman. The Maloudja Beach Bungalows in Moroni are a great place to stay. They’re simple but “well-maintained”, and have a nice restaurant.

Undiscovered Destinations (0191-296 2674, www.undiscovereddestinations.com) has an 11-day trip from £1,399pp, excluding international flights.