Wine choice

I credit the start of my “obsession” with muscat to a childhood encounter with a bunch of ripe muscat grapes, says David Williams in The Observer: “the pop of sweet perfumed juice” opened “my palate” to its wonders. Here are some great muscats, perfect for summer… Royal Tokaji Yellow Muscat, Tokaj, Hungary 2015 (£12.49, Laithwaite’s) Refreshingly aromatic, this wine has a “floral lilt and pear-and-citrus zip”.

On Pantelleria, off Sicily, the muscat grape makes the sticky, tangy dessert wine Carlo Pellegrino Passito di Pantelleria 2014 (£10.99, 37.5cl, www.dbmwines.co.uk). Up north in Piedmont, it’s behind the frothy white peach lightness of Michele Chiarlo Nivole Moscato d’asti 2016 (£8.90, 37.5cl, www.winepoole.co.uk).

Colinas del Itata Old Vine Field Blend Muscat Corinto, Chile 2016 (£10, M&S) has “saline freshness and grapefruit zinginess”. It’s not unlike the best dry muscats of Alsace, such as the “mineral but floral” Domaine Albert Mann Muscat Tradition 2014 (£17.99, www.smilinggrape.com).

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