What the experts recommend
Il Cudega Railway Arch 358, Westgate Street, London E8 (020-7241 6599) I went to this Italian restaurant a year or so ago and loved it, says Fay Maschler in the London Evening Standard. I didn’t review it, since it only opened at lunchtime. But as of this summer, Il Cudega is open from Wednesday to Saturday evenings – and the time has come to spread the good news. It’s a locally crowd-funded operation, nestling in one of the three railway arches that make up Fountlondon in Hackney, and the “passion is palpable”. To begin, a selection of salumi from the deli display is “artistically arranged and generously served”, with the homemade focaccia partnering the supple, Lucullan cured meats beautifully. The artisanal spaghetti used in the restaurant is “exceptional, with vivacious personality and a whiff of the soft crumb of just-baked bread” missing in other pastas. Anointed with butter and “buried under a shower of shaved black summer truffles, it results in a wondrous assembly”. Risotto alla Milanese is a “rippling golden pond flecked with saffron; cotoletta alla Milanese is beaten fine and served simply and well. Great wines, too. Starters from £10.50; mains from £12.50.
The Potting Shed The Street, Crudwell, Malmesbury, Wiltshire (01666-577833) There’s no “fuss or faffing” at The Potting Shed, says Tom Parker Bowles in The Mail on Sunday. There are no “incongruous smears” or “fancy-pants pretensions” – just “thoughtful, beautifully cooked pub food” and a menu stuffed with things you want to eat. Sweet carrots and fat, peppery radishes, for example, with celery salt and homemade mayonnaise. Or a “great golden pile” of chipirones that are every bit the equal of those at [acclaimed Soho tapas joint] Barrafina; “flawlessly fried, lavished with lemon juice”, and served with a bowl of punchy aioli. A light summer vegetable broth of “startling clarity and intensity is given a southern French burr with a honk of verdant pistou”. Devilled kidneys on toast are “blissfully fresh”. And children can enjoy their “no nonsense” beef burgers. Only a hake stew doesn’t delight: it’s fresh and cooked well with crisp chorizo and squid, but it “needs more acidity” to cut through the bulk. Overall, though, this place gets it all so very right, and served me “one of the best pub lunches” I’ve had in years. Lunch for two, £50.
Lympstone Manor Courtlands Lane, Exmouth, Devon (01395-202040) This splendid Georgian country pile, which boasts glorious views of the Exe estuary and Devonshire coastline, has been given a no-expense-spared refit by chefpatron Michael Caines, says Natalie Whittle in the Financial Times. There’s beautifully restored stonework, luxurious accommodation, and “you will not lack for well-plumped shot-silk cushions” while waiting to be seated for your “stunning food”. Caines has devised a tasting menu for Lympstone that gathers lots of the dishes from his Michelin-starred career. There’s a chic take on the traditional tartlet, with quail’s egg and black truffle. Langoustine cannelloni with braised fennel and shellfish sauce is generously packed with shellfish. A pistachio soufflé and an excellent selection of British cheeses shows “a kitchen mindset that does the classics brilliantly well”. Prices range from a two course lunch at £45 to an eight course signature tasting menu at £140.