The Week Wines
How a wine evolves in the glass is very important, says our wine editor, Bruce Palling, and these wines from Lay & Wheeler all have something lasting to say.
Tasting a single glass of wine is the equivalent to meeting a stranger, and merely shaking hands with them before moving on. Drinking an entire bottle is more akin to sitting down and having a good chat with someone for an hour or more. These wines from Lay & Wheeler all have something lasting to say, not just a superficial hello and goodbye.
The fad for offering wine pairings in restaurants is relatively new – popularised by the late Parisian chef Alain Senderens. With the rise in small plates, it is a golden opportunity for restaurateurs to offer half a dozen or so sample glasses and charge more than a decent bottle of wine for the privilege. But how can you explore the evolution of a wine if you only get a thimbleful? Given that sommeliers like to show off relatively obscure wines, there is a danger they won’t be to your taste either. Besides, part of the pleasure of drinking wine is seeing how a particular bottle reacts with a whole spectrum of food flavours. One of the most important aspects of wine tasting is to evaluate how the wine evolves in the glass – as just by warming up and being exposed to air has a crucial impact on how it develops. If a wine is immediately attractive and open for business, it can mean it won’t be drinkable in an hour’s time as it may lack spine or structure. Equally, a wine that is closed and ungiving may develop after an hour or so with exposure to the air and a rising temperature.
Lay & Wheeler has been on the scene for more than 160 years. Renowned for their knowledge of the classic wine regions of the world, they are also showing a wider interest in what lays beyond. They have recently appointed Katy Andersen as managing director. With her background at Princeton and Harvard Business School, there are bound to be exciting moves in the coming months. Château Montaiguillon, Montagne-st-emilion 2014 Excellent value, this has complexity and depth, helped by the 40-year-old vines which have been in the same family for 70 years. The vineyard sits just north of St Emilion, and nearly two thirds of the vines are merlot with the remainder made up equally of cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc. Right bank Bordeaux has more perfume and generosity than the more austere wines of the Médoc on the Left bank. Though perfectly drinkable now, it will continue to improve for a few more years.
Chris Alheit, Flotsam and Jetsam Cinsault 2016 Suzaan and Chris Alheit are leaders in South Africa’s new wave wineries and have produced a light, fruity wine with relatively low alcohol. More famous for their whites, this new venture has gained success as a lighter wine inspired by the French Rhônes. Often used in the blend of grapes that create Châteauneuf-duPape, it is similar to grenache but more aromatic. Think of it in the same category as a fine Beaujolais; it is delicious served slightly cold and not necessarily with food.
Crozes-hermitage Laya, Cave Yves Cuilleron 2015 CrozesHermitage tends to be overlooked but this wine is making a big impact for Yves Cuilleron, who is particularly known for his Condrieu. Made entirely from the syrah grape, this already has an attractive roundness and generosity which means it can be enjoyed now and for the remainder of this decade. For a wine as sophisticated as this, it is a bargain. Roero Arneis, Vigne Sparse, Giovanni Almondo 2016 There are so many grape varieties and regional variations with Italian whites, it is easy to overlook the exciting examples buried within. Roero is tucked away in Piedmont, north of Alba. Giovanni Almondo’s Vigne Sparse is a deliciously refreshing white with excellent fruit flavours. It is what I would term a “pop and pour” wine, with no rough edges and the ability to go with any light dish or even to be enjoyed by itself.
Bourgogne Blanc, Michel Bouzereau 2013 I was very impressed with the complexity of this starter wine from one of Burgundy’s great producers of Meursault. Made with the same care as Michel Bouzereau’s grander wines, it comprises grapes from Meursault and neighbouring PulignyMontrachet. Although the colour is quite light, it has superb depth and that touch of steel in its spine which shows is has real pedigree. There’s no need to keep it any longer, but it is not going to fade away for a few years to come.