What the experts recommend
The Coach 26-28 Ray Street, London EC1 (020-3954 1595) It’s been a tough few years for classic French bistros in London, says Tom Parker Bowles in The Mail on Sunday. First the brilliant Racine, in Chelsea, sent out its last pot au chocolat; then its illustrious neighbour, La Brasserie, “fermed its portes” too. Then the news broke a few weeks ago that Galvin Bistrot de Luxe, on Baker Street, was also “finis” – done in by a combination of economic woes and rising rents. All the more reason, then, to celebrate the arrival of The Coach, in Clerkenwell, an outstanding new “bistro within a gastro pub” from the chef behind Racine, Henry Harris. We went for “lusciously fatty rillettes, comme il faut”, then a plate of Bayonne ham with a crunchy, mustard-heavy rémoulade. “And brains, burnished, lovely, delicately creamy brains in a typically dirty, caper-studded beurre noisette.” Soft and succulent leg of rabbit with a punchy mustard sauce for me and confit duck for my friend were executed by a “seasoned, knowing hand”. And we finished with a rich, bitter chocolate pot and a hunk of beautifully aged Comté. “Parfait.” About £30 a head.
Henry’s 4 Saville Row, Bath (01225-780055) I recently attended a conference on “the future of the dining experience” where the talk was all of “data capture” and “personalisation”, says Jay Rayner in The Observer. It was depressing corporate guff, but it had the happy effect of making me value great local restaurants such as Henry’s all the more. This “thoroughly lovely” place has a simple dining room, sympathetic to the Georgian townhouse it occupies, and a fine chef in Henry Scott. A heap of glossy ratatouille was topped with whorls of truffle mayonnaise and crispy rings of shallot. A brilliant green herb risotto with brill and a langoustine reduction was a “complete winner”, and was matched by an “extremely clever warm chocolate tart, with a heart of pure liquid”. Among several other fine offerings were two oddities: an “interesting” dish of salsify and chickpeas, and an artichoke crème brûlée that would have been better without the artichoke. In all other respects, the cooking was great, and great value. Meal for two, including wine, from £90.
Where to eat in Madrid
More than 20 years after moving to Madrid, I “still find myself surprised by the quality of everyday eating”, says food writer Vicky Hayward in the FT. My home cooking is inspired by what I find at my local food market, Mercado Barceló, and at the weekend I head to one of the many great cafés there to enjoy a sticky tortilla and coffee. Mercado de Antón Martín is another excellent market, where I go for fresh seaweed. For tapas, I’d recommend La Venencia, a familyowned place on Calle Echegaray where Jerez wines, including the rare Palo Cortado, are drawn from the barrel. When friends are in town, I often take them to Restaurante Triciclo, one of a new breed of “creative avant-garde” restaurants that have redefined Madrid gastronomy. Dishes “incorporate market staples and more exotic fare”: prawns and borage emulsified with seaweed and tarragon; Ibérico pork tartare with wild mushrooms and quail’s eggs. Last, for a sweet-toothed breakfast I can recommend La Duquesita, a “venerable” and muchloved cake shop on Calle de Fernando VI.