Feasting in a Cornish farmhouse

A five-bedroom Georgian guesthouse set in 66 acres of Cornish countryside, Coombeshead Farm is “no bogstandard b&b”, says Tom Parker Bowles in Condé Nast Traveller, rather a collaboration between two remarkable chefs – Tom Adams (behind “meatcentric” London restaurant Pitt Cue) and April Bloomfield (the Birminghamborn chef-proprietor of The Spotted Pig and The Breslin in New York). Inspired by the American field-to-fork movement, they’re aiming to be as self-sufficient as possible (and only the coffee is imported). Such food trends are often “hijacked” by pretentious halfwits. But with its “crackling fires and record player, and comfy sofas”, Coombeshead is resolutely down-to-earth – “a proper home, albeit with an honesty bar and a great chef as your host”.

Guest rooms are “small but handsome”, with good linen, deep mattresses and lots of delightful details, including carafes of rhubarb gin and portions of delicious buttery fudge. And while the communal dining arrangements might provoke anxiety in some guests, the staff are so charming and the food so good you soon relax. Highlights on our menu included “blissfully chewy” sourdough bread, plump Porthilly oysters served on elderflower granita, “gloriously rustic” venison sausages and great loins from the farm’s rare-breed Mangalitsa pigs. All in all, “a hands-in-the-air revelation”. Coombeshead is open Thursday to Sunday inclusive, doubles from £175 b&b. Five-course set dinner from £65 per person. On Sundays, there is also a three-course set lunch for £28 (01566782009, www.coombesheadfarm.co.uk).