What the experts recommend

The Painswick Kemps Lane, Painswick, Gloucestershire (01452-813688) The Painswick is one of those “honeycoloured sandstone hotels that make even the most hard-hearted of us dream of Bridget Jones minibreaks”, says Jay Rayner in The Observer. It is also certain to restore your faith – should it ever waver – in the “civilising powers of a good lunch”. The dining room is all “muted tones, parquet flooring, dado rails and oatmeal-coloured banquettes”. And the cooking by Jamie Mccallum – who once led the kitchen at the ever pleasing and reliable Wild Honey in Mayfair – is “confident bistro food aimed at a grown-up crowd”. You “admire the good taste and technique without being distracted by it”. Long-braised pork has been finely shredded, spun through with fresh herbs, pressed, then seared in a hot pan until crisp. Slow-cooked lamb with green veg and shimeji mushrooms is just as fine. As too is sea bream with spuds, beetroots and a thick, “languid” beetroot puree, followed by a dark chocolate delice with soused cherries and a sour cherry sorbet. Meal for two, including drinks and service, £100.

The Hidden Hut Porthcurnick Beach, Cornwall (hiddenhut.co.uk) It’s “impossible” not to adore this beguiling beach shack, nestling on a coastal path above a “dreamy, uncluttered” Cornish cove, says Grace Dent in The Guardian. The food here is “recognisable and reassuring” (cakes, steak pasties and clotted cream ice cream), but with “dashes of pizzazz and minor weirdness for the tourists and trendies” (lentil and cauliflower dal; watercress and gorgonzola soup). On the day I strolled by, there was chipotle beef chilli with feta and herb-speckled bulgur wheat. This sort of fanciness may be standard in north London, but at The Hidden Hut’s open-air tables it feels “positively raffish, and I love them for it”. I also love them for their “feast nights” – where locals bring their own crockery and booze, and settle in for the evening. “Dress for the weather! We go ahead whatever the forecast says,” warns the website – which I find joyful. After all, “what is Britain without people stoicly eating mackerel in sideways drizzle”? About £18 for 3 courses, plus drinks.

Freak Scene 54 Frith Street, London W1 (020-7734 6370) The Australian behind this outstanding Soho pop-up, Scott Hallsworth, was head chef at Nobu for six years before heading out on his own, says Tim Hayward in the FT. I know nothing of his life story, but the menu at Freak Scene feels like he “can’t be arsed with tweezering flowers onto desserts any more and has decided to use his powers for good” – namely by opening up this offbeat, agreeably divey bar/restaurant and “making the kind of food that people who love food love”. There’s a miso, black cod and sushi rice taco, which “might be some kind of homage to Nobu, but is far more robust fun than anything they could allow themselves”. There’s a chunky wrap of hoisin-glazed pork belly with a mussel lurking beneath. “Again, accomplished, never poncified, always gorgeous.” And the standout dish is mixed Asian mushrooms baked in foil with soy, mirin, garlic and butter. “You tear into the top and bathe your entire head in the smell.” Sharing plates £3.50-£14.