Expert recommendations for cooking in lockdown
With reducing shopping trips a priority, many of us have been “looking anew at our freezers”, says Tony Naylor in The Guardian. But how best to “manage those icy depths”? Dan McGeorge, head chef at Rothay Manor in Cumbria, recommends freezing ingredients in reusable silicone pouches or plastic food bags. Push out as much air as you can, to prevent corrosion from frozen air and minimise ice crystals. Once labelled, these packs can be stored upright in a freezer drawer, says Lulu Grimes, of BBC Good Food: “You just rifle through to find the right pack and pull it out.” Few foods are an absolute no-no to freeze, apart from boiled eggs and raw potatoes, says food writer Shivi Ramoutar. But some fare better than others: soft foods like herbs and berries break down as they defrost, but they can still be added to soups or sauces. Chef Tom Kerridge advises against freezing prime cuts of meat – it stretches their fibres – but cured meats are fine, as is any meat you’re going to use in a stew or curry. If you’re freezing veg, first blanch them (so they keep their colour and texture) by boiling them briefly, then plunge them in icy water. Once dry, freeze them in a single layer on trays and then bag them.
With summer virtually here, many of us are eating more salads, says Harry Wallop in The Times – and “leaf experts” have a range of tips for making them more exciting. Chef Jake Finn recommends griddling – or even barbecuing – lettuce: “It brings out the umami flavours, particularly with a baby gem or radicchio.” Pickles are a useful way to add crunch and acidity to a salad, according to Waitrose development chef Zoë Simons: “Kimchi, sauerkraut or cornichons are great options.” Catherine Phipps, the author of thinks it’s time to look beyond the marriage of basil and tomato. “A tarragon, cream and lemon dressing works so well with tomatoes,” she says. She recommends experimenting with chervil,
Leaf,
thyme and oregano, and is also a fan of warm dressings on a salad. Fry pancetta or nduja in olive oil, add some vinegar to deglaze the pan and pair it with bitter leaves. “It’s transformative.” Grains have become the building blocks of many high street salads – and you can easily replicate these at home with maftoul or freekeh. Or follow Edinburgh-based food writer Jessica Elliott Dennison’s advice and opt for pearl barley – since it has the benefit of being available “on our doorstep”.
“Many of my close friends, asked where they want to go first after lockdown, mention Brasserie Zédel in London’s Soho,” says Jay Rayner in The Observer. This, when you think about it, isn’t so surprising: when people of a certain generation hear the word “restaurant”, what tends to come to mind first is the French bistro. French cooking has deep roots in Britain – from the Huguenots who brought it here to “Auguste Escoffier at the Savoy” and, later, London institutions such as L’Escargot. The culinary landscape is much changed now: on the takeaway apps that are currently helping to feed the nation, French options are a rarity. But the classic bistro, with its checked tablecloths, art nouveau touches and promise of good food, retains its hold in our imaginations. And that’s why, “in these shrunken times”, it’s bistros we’re dreaming of.