Recipe of the week: mozzarella in carrozza, by Pamela Yung
A snack food for the masses in much of southern Italy, mozzarella in carrozza is traditionally made with leftovers – dried slices of bread; yesterday’s mozzarella; the breadcrumbs that make a cameo in nearly every dish in cucina povera. I make my own version at my London restaurant Flor, says Pamela Yung, with the cheeky addition of incredibly delicious ’nduja.
Serves 2 250g ball of high-quality buffalo mozzarella 4 slices of stale bread (at Flor, we use a house-made milk bread) ’nduja (I suggest purchasing it from my friend Giuseppe at De Calabria in Borough Market) drizzle of honey sprinkle of dried Sicilian oregano 300g plain flour 3 eggs splash of milk, plus extra to brush 300g fine breadcrumbs or panko breadcrumbs vegetable or sunflower oil, to deep-fry 8 good-quality anchovies sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
• Slice your mozzarella into 1cm planks and carefully dab them between sturdy paper towels to remove excess moisture. Arrange 2 slices of the bread face up and, using a butter knife, spread a thin layer of ’nduja onto each slice.
• Follow with a generous drizzle of honey and a sprinkle of oregano on each. Trim your mozzarella to fit within ¾cm/¼in of the bread’s perimeter and lay it flat onto the slices. Season with sea salt.
• Layer the second pieces of bread on top of each slice. Use a pastry brush dipped in milk to moisten the perimeter of the top slice of bread – this will help with adhesion. Using your palm, carefully and evenly apply pressure to create a “seal” around the mozzarella. With a serrated knife, trim the crusts from the sandwich. Apply pressure once more to ensure a closed edge.
• Prepare to bread the sandwiches. In three separate bowls, place the plain flour (seasoned with salt and pepper); the eggs, lightly whisked with the splash of milk; and the breadcrumbs. Take a sandwich and coat it completely (both sides and four edges) with plain flour. Next, moisten entirely with the egg mixture – no dry spots should remain. Finally, coat it well in the breadcrumbs.
• Fill a large, deep pot with a few inches of oil and heat to 180°C. Drop the sandwich into the oil and fry for 2-3 minutes on each side, until golden. Repeat the breading and frying process with the other sandwich, then plate up and drape over the anchovies. These sandwiches are best savoured hot, when the cheese pulls in the prized al telefono fashion.
Taken from The Female Chef: Stories and recipes from 31 women redefining the British food scene by Clare Finney and Liz Seabrook, published by Hoxton Mini Press at £28. To buy from The Week Bookshop for £21.99, call 020-3176 3835 or visit theweekbookshop.co.uk.