The Sky’s the Limit
Malcolm Horton on the birthplace of aviation
TRUNDLING over the ground, gaining momentum in his rudimentary French Voisin biplane, J.T.C MooreBrabazon was about to make history. As the plane took to the sky from Shellbeach on the Isle of Sheppey, the aviation pioneer became the first Briton officially to fly a powered aircraft in the UK. It was 2 May,
1909. Exposed to all the elements, as the pilot was, one can only imagine the wind, the tremors as the whole aircraft shook, the immense noise from the engine . . . and, of course, Moore-Brabazon’s euphoria as he made the maiden flight, if only of 50 yards.
When it comes to aviation, the Isle of Sheppey is used to firsts. As well as the first officially recorded powered flight in Britain, it was here that the first aircraft factory in the world was established, the first airfield in Britain and our first military flying school. Sheppey was home to the Aero Club of Great Britain, too, whose members’ fearless experimentation led to bold technical advancements in aircraft design. It was even on this prosaic island that Winston Churchill became the world’s first government minister to learn how to fly. But while Sheppey is the undisputed cradle of British aviation, its story is little known.
It can be said to begin in 1901 when three wealthy motorists, Frank Hedges Butler, his daughter, Vera, and Charles Rolls (of Rolls-Royce fame) were gearing up for a motor tour which was unceremoniously cancelled when Vera’s Renault 4.5 caught fire. Vera arranged a balloon flight with the distinguished professional Stanley Spencer as a distraction.
Over a glass of champagne during the voyage, they agreed that a club should be formed, and the Aero Club of Great Britain was born (gaining the appellation Royal in 1910). Due no doubt to the presence and personality of Vera Butler, it was, uniquely for the time, agreed that it be open “equally to ladies and gentlemen, subject to election”.
Initially confined to ballooning, when heavier-than-air flight arrived (after Orville Wright’s momentary yet successful legendary flight at Kitty
Hawk, North Carolina, in 1903), the club embraced the phenomenon with enthusiasm. One member had bought some land on Laysdown on the Isle of Sheppey with the intention of using it as a putting green, but when he saw how flat it was he offered it to his fellow Aero Club members as a good landing site. After all, there was plenty of space and they weren’t likely to attract complaints from docile sheep.
So, in 1909 the Aero Club set themselves up at Sheppey, using the landing field and what is now
Muswell Manor as their club house. Here these magnificent men experimented day after day in their crude flying machines. As well as Charlie Rolls and John MooreBrabazon, Frank McClean, Ernest Pitman and the Grace Brothers, Percy and Frank, were amongst their ranks. These early aviators were a rare breed.
“The general public perception was that these guys were rich playboys, playing with these aeroplane things that weren’t of much use to anybody”, says Peter West, Trustee of the Eastchurch Aviation Museum. At the time few had the foresight to
recognise how pivotal aviation would become in all our lives.
The establishment was equally unimpressed. Field Marshal Sir William Nicholson, Chief of The Imperial Staff, was of the opinion that aviation was a useless and expensive fad, while General Hague, who relied on the cavalry, the traditional means of reconnaissance, was convinced that “the horse will always be better than the aircraft, particularly the well-bred horse”. The pioneers had to carry on amidst official neglect and even ridicule, despite the fact that the dangers were considerable.
“They didn’t have safety belts on the aircraft because if the aircraft is going to crash, which it very likely will, it’s better to be thrown clear as you’ve got a huge lump of engine just behind your head,” Peter points out.
Winston Churchill was of a different opinion. Very keen on powered flight, he was much more of a supporter than other members of the government.
“The story goes that Churchill was, in fact, so keen on flying he’d come down in an Admiralty yacht and take the Sheppey Light Railway out to Eastchurch, where he would then be taught to fly and play with the aeroplanes. At lunchtime an aircraft would fly from Eastchurch over to the mainland to pick up some Swale oysters for his lunch. After enjoying the fresh seafood, Churchill would then play with the aircraft a bit more again in the afternoon, and then go back to his yacht for the night!”
A fine day out – though his hobby wasn’t encouraged. To lose the First Lord of the Admiralty in a flying accident would be unfortunate, to say the least.
It was in this climate of government disinterest and even hostility that Wilbur and Orville Wright had tried to sell their invention. The American government didn’t want to know, nor did the French, the Germans or the Japanese. Eventually, however, the Wright brothers visited Muswell Manor in 1909 and gave the Short brothers – who had originally made hot-air balloons in Battersea, south London – the first licence to build six Wright flyers outside America. The world’s first aircraft factory was born.
“Horace Short was a genius engineer,” Peter enthuses. “He had flown with Wilbur Wright in Pau, France, and after the flight had asked
Wright for the technical drawings of the aircraft. ‘We haven’t got any,’ Wilbur is said to have replied. ‘We’ve simply built this thing and adapted it as we’ve gone along.’
“Horace Short returned home to the UK and created technical drawings from memory – a staggering feat. When he and his two brothers obtained the licence to build six Wright Flyers, he quickly began to adapt the aircraft from the Wrights’ original design. For instance, he put wheels on the bottom, whereas the Wrights’ Flyers only had skids. The Short brothers went on to develop sea planes and float planes, and all this technical development went on at Sheppey.”
Unfortunately for the pioneers, their original location at Shellness was soon found to be unsuitable. During the winter of 1909/1910 the ground was soggy and full of dykes. Undeterred, Charlie Rolls took off in his Wright Flyer, flying over to Eastchurch, and it was to here that the airfield was moved. The Short brothers relocated with the Aero Club to the new site.
These early days of aviation were marked by both triumph and tragedy. In July 1911, Eastchurch hosted the International Air Race, sponsored by American publisher James Gordon Bennett. Over 10,000 spectators turned out to see pilots from France, America and Britain complete 40 laps round a fixed circuit of 94 miles.
In August 1912, aviation pioneer Frank McClean caused a national sensation when, in taking off from Harty in a Short seaplane, he flew under Tower Bridge and the next six bridges before landing in front of the Houses of Parliament. The police weren’t amused, but the public were thrilled, and it didn’t prevent him from being knighted in the 1926 King’s birthday honours list for services to aviation.
The dangers, however, were all too real. In the summer of 1910, Charlie Rolls became the first of the British pioneer flyers to die in a flying accident during an air show in Bournemouth, and in 1911 Cecil
Grace was lost over the North Sea attempting to return on a cross Channel flight.
“It’s said that, for some reason, Grace forgot to take his compass with him,” says Peter. “On the return flight bad weather shrouded the coast and he simply drifted off far to the north. The aeroplane ran out of fuel and he drowned.” A stained-glass memorial window was unveiled to the two aviation pioneers at All Saints Church at Eastchurch by the Archbishop of Canterbury on 27 July 1912.
Attitudes to aviation began to change as World War I approached and in 1913 the Royal Flying Corps was established, with a military wing and a navy wing, the latter with its headquarters at Eastchurch. Shortly after, in 1914, the Royal Naval Air Service was also officially established at Eastchurch, and the two operated side by side until April 1918 when the RFC and RNAS were forced into marriage to form the Royal Air Force. Aviation pioneer Frank McClean was a keen supporter of naval personnel learning how to fly, even offering two of his own aircraft to the admiralty.
During World War II, Eastchurch was used as a training station but, believed by the Luftwaffe to be a fighter station, it became a target during the Battle of Britain and was badly bombed. Deemed redundant after the war, and given the number of airfields in the country, Eastchurch Aerodrome was formally closed on 30 August 1946 and the RAF left the Isle of Sheppey, never to return. In 1950 the Home Office requisitioned the site for use as a prison, today HMP Standford Hill.
Somehow, the Isle of Sheppey, covered in sheep and with an open prison, doesn’t quite have the romance one might associate with the birthplace of British aviation. But thanks to the Eastchurch Aviation Museum founders, Peter West, Jenney Hurket and Bill Croydon, the story is being told.
Since 2015, the museum has displayed original plans of the early aircraft, models, personal paperwork, flying licences and logbooks. A register has also been made of all those who served at Eastchurch, the best part of 4,000 names long, as well as a memorial register listing everyone connected with the Isle of Sheppey who died in service or as a result of enemy action.
At present the museum welcomes around 3,000 visitors a year, and an extension is currently in progress which Peter hopes will triple visitor numbers.
“We’re also negotiating with the Ministry of Justice for some 1912 hangars which currently belong to the prison. In the words of English Heritage they are ‘the most valuable aviation architecture left in Europe’ and they’re currently standing empty.” If the museum can take them over, they might soon be able to show off some early aircraft used by those very first pioneers.
The expanding museum deserves every success. After all, aviation is one of the greatest inventions of the 20th century and the crucial role played by the Isle of Sheppey needs greater recognition. It remains truly one of Kent’s finest historical jewels.
Eastchurch Aviation Museum, Wright’s Way, off Brabazon Road, HMP Standford Hill, Eastchurch ME12 4AA. 07450 621217.
For more information, visit eastchurchaviationmuseum.org.uk