This England

Sunday Roast Staples

- N. L. Ajinkya

tradition’s sake, there must be a reason why this meal has stood the test of time. As much as I adore the bung-it-all-in-and-leave-it style of cooking a roast of the Industrial Revolution – and we can experience similar today with the magical slow cooker – it seems that we’re enjoying more of the small pleasures in life today, finding just the right vegetables and sourcing the perfect piece of meat.

In the age of the internet, type in your ingredient and you’ll find endless inspiratio­n of what to do with it. I believe, dare I say, cooking has become fashionabl­e again, and I’m sure friendship­s and even businesses have been forged after comparing notes on what to do with a Jerusalem artichoke.

The rise of veganism has got the foodie world in a spin, creating new favourites and vegan versions of old favourites. It’s even reached the roasting table with a good protein-rich nut roast, or far lighter, roasted cauliflowe­r steak.

I’ve never dared to present the Ellis family with a cauliflowe­r steak; I’m sure they would all be happy with the home-cooked goodness of it all, but

I’m equally sure my dad would ask if I’d forgotten to put the meat on!

Even when putting different twists on the traditiona­l roast, the fundamenta­ls remain grounded. The memory of my family roast growing up will be with me forever – every time I peel those potatoes it takes me back to my childhood home and the galley kitchen with its vinyl floor and mock Tudor cupboards.

Thankfully the roast is so ingrained in our culture it’s here to stay. It’s also all about getting together – whether you’re cooking for two or 22 people, to set a day or a few hours aside to take some time to catch up and relax is good for the soul. And what better way to do it than around the table?

We all have our own take on the roast, but there are some things no roast would be complete without!

The main event: chicken, lamb, pork, beef or duck, and depending on the season, goose, turkey, grouse or pheasant (or a vegetarian alternativ­e like nut roast, mushroom wellington or beetroot tarte tatin).

Roast potatoes: however you prefer to cook them – goosefat, butter, olive oil – every roast needs these crispy golden boulders of joy.

Yorkshire puddings: big, crisp and ideally holding lots of gravy. They were originally served as an appetiser with gravy, cooked underneath the meat-roasting spit in order to capture the valuable juices. It would also pack out a meal when meat was expensive and there wasn’t much to go round.

Seasonal vegetables: from carrots to parsnips to green beans, this is where we can see seasons on our plate. I’m always happy to try roasting some baby aubergines and corn for a little summery touch.

Gravy: the final addition to bring this glorious meal together. There’s nothing tastier than homemade gravy made from all those delicious juices in the bottom of the roasting pan, but I grew up thinking “proper gravy” was a branded variety of granules rather than the supermarke­t own brand, so I’m not going to scoff at instant!

Horseradis­h sauce: usually the fiery condiment for beef, it’s tempting to add a touch of peppery heat to other favourites, too.

What bring you on this happy day? What box of great delight?

What trinket made of purest gold? What jewel of lambent light?

There’s just one gift I would miss Not on the list above.

Just a smile, perhaps a kiss. To know I have your love.

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