Town & Country (UK)

ELLY MCCAUSLAND

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Here in Norway, where I work as a senior lecturer in British and American Literature at the University of Oslo, we’ve been lucky that the food shortages haven’t been too severe, but I have had to be more flexible than usual. Botanicals have always been at the heart of my cooking – they are inexpensiv­e, but they can completely transform a dish. Using less familiar herbs and spices can make you more creative: for instance, we’re so used to having basil on tomatoes, but try dill instead and it immediatel­y changes the flavour from Italian to Scandinavi­an.

I’ve been passing the time while in lockdown by doing lots of baking. In summer, I love making my little cherry and almond cakes, which are great for using up random ingredient­s in your cupboards: you can replace the almonds with hazelnuts or desiccated coconut, and substitute any fruit (or even jam) for the cherries. I’ve used figs, apricots, peaches, pears and a variety of different berries with great success. ‘The Botanical Kitchen: Cooking with Fruits, Flowers, Leaves and Seeds’ by Elly Mccausland (£26, Bloomsbury Absolute) is out now. www.nutmegssev­en.co.uk

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