Town & Country (UK)

MARIANNA LEIVADITAK­I

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As the head chef at Morito in Hackney, I’m usually really busy in the kitchen, but while the restaurant is closed during the quarantine period, I haven’t much to do but cook at home (or, in my case, overcook – I’ve made enough to feed all my neighbours!). I love preparing food that reminds me of my childhood: although Britain has been my home for 20 years, I was brought up in Crete, where my father was a fisherman and my family ran a seafood restaurant on the waterfront. The most important thing I learnt there was that you don’t need elaborate cooking styles to make food taste delicious – you just need really fresh ingredient­s. On sunny days, I’ll make a simple watermelon salad using leftover bread, any nice salad leaves that are in season and as ripe a fruit I can find (you’ll know it’s ready to eat if it makes a low-pitched, hollow sound when you give it a strong-handed pat). For authentic Cretan feta, I recommend Maltby & Greek, or for a more locally sourced alternativ­e, try Kupros Dairy in north London, which uses English raw milk to produce its own versions of traditiona­l Mediterran­ean cheeses. Just be imaginativ­e and don’t follow the recipe too rigidly. ‘Aegean’ by Marianna Leivaditak­i (£26, Kyle Books) is published on 2 July. www.mariannale­ivaditaki.com

INGREDIENT­S 2 slices of sourdough bread, cut into small squares 7 tbsp extra virgin olive oil 500g watermelon flesh, cut into small bite-size pieces, pips removed 10 black Greek olives, pitted 1 handful of fresh mint, chopped 1 tbsp pumpkin seeds 1 small cucumber, sliced lengthways and then across into thin half-moon pieces 1 handful of purslane (or rocket leaves), roughly chopped 200g feta, cut into medium-size cubes Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

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