Calminginfluence of CarnadoeWaters
AlisonAldertoenxplores oneofherfavouritheaunts ontheShannon.
THE labyrinth of waterways known as Carnadoe Waters is steeped in history and folklore, a refuge for waterfowl and boaters seeking peace and solace - a place where time stands still. It is without doubt one of my favourite haunts on the mighty Shannon. Access is found in the south-western corner of Lake Boderg, where a narrow channel penetrates the dense reed beds. The course winds on through deep sheltered pools to reach Carnadoe Quay and bridge - the gateway to the Carnadoe Waters. Built from limestone, the bridge is slighter lower than others on the Shannon Navigation, restricting access for larger craft. Original plans show that a swing bridge would be placed here to improve access to these remote waters and allow steamers to within two miles ofStrokestown but this never happened. In 1830 a local landowner named Molloy McDermott indicated that he intended to rebuild the bridges at Carnadoe and Grange, construct a lock and bring the navigation to within a mile of the market town of Elphin. McDermott hoped that the Royal Canal Company would help with the stonework required but this was not forthcoming and it seems that the idea was dropped ... or was it?
Tunnelof light
Today Carnadoe Quay offers good mooring and peaceful surroundings. It can become busy in the summer months but later in the season, it is possible to have the place to yourself. During the autumn and winter, the early setting sun shines directly through the bridge to create a tunnel of glorious diffused orange light. There is only a small marina and a few houses here so bring supplies, chill out and revel in the peaceful isolation. Beyond the bridge, the route enters Carnadoe Lough, twisting and turning through vast reed beds the colour of burnished gold. Immediately, the boater is aware of the presence of ducks, geese and swans but there are other birds which make these waters their home, such as the flamboyant great crested grebe and the shy water rail. Designated a National Heritage Area, there is a high density of overwintering waterfowl including teal, tufted duck, widgeon and white-fronted geese from Greenland. As it divides, the boater is faced with a choice. Tothe right through a reed-lined arm is Grange Lough while directly ahead, a 700yd cut leads to KilglassLough. At the western end of Grange Lough stands the Silver Eel public house. Occupying a former busy quay, once known as Ballantynes Wharf, this would have served nearby Strokestown. Beside and running in from the north is a fastflowing stream, potentially the route of the little-known Rockville Navigation. The Rockville Navigation is a bit of a mystery - but could it be that Molloy McDermott 's proposal was further advanced than first meets the eye? Beyond Grange it may have been possible to navigate to the Rockville Estate. Byexploring in smaller craft such as a dinghy or canoe, the shallow route leads to a series of smaller lakes connected by cuts. Evidence peters out not far from the Rockville Estate but not before passing beneath a pretty stone bridge dated 1765 and what could be the remains of a wharf.
Turftransport
It was not unusual for the large Irish estates to have canal cuts mainly used for the transportation of turf to the great house or agriculturalproduce from the local area. William Lloyd of Rockville was involved in drainage improvements so maybe it is just wishful thinking on behalf of intrepid waterway explorers? For now, it remains one oflreland 's waterway mysteries. Kilglass Lough and the surrounding area was one of the worst affected by the Great Famine and not surprisingly there are many stories attached to it. The lake contains at least two Iron Age crannogs, man-made islands which would once have been defended homesteads. The Mountium River,derived from the Irish word for a marshy place, now more commonly known as the Mountain River, can be explored from Kilglass Lough for a short distance before retracing to head to the south-western extremity of the lake where pontoon moorings form a neat little harbour. If you walk up the steep lane leading away from the waterfront there are some fine views ofthe lake and its surrounding landscape. During the autumn, mute swans gather and the bubbling cry of the curlew can still be heard at dusk. For those looking for a different aspect of the Shannon, this may just be the perfect place to let time stand still.