Start-of-season boat checks
Ben Sutcliffe-Davies helps us out with key preparation tips before casting off.
Fuel: With some craft having not been run for five or six months, it’s likely that the fuel could be contaminated. Look at your inline fuel filters; if you have a primary fuel filter with a clear bowl check it for contamination. Most inline filters do have a small drain-off to the bottom of the tank, it’s worth draining off a pint to check the fuel condition. If not, try and use a small siphon to draw some water off the base of the tank. Likewise, doing a regular check every few months will help confirm what's going on in the tank.
Deck filler: Regardless of if you have petrol or diesel power most owners will have a deck filler on the side deck. Check the condition of the cap seal, many have an O-ring – ‘any doubt chuck it out’ – replace and then grease the threads with a silicon grease. Any small amount of water in the tank will cause problems at some point and with diesel can encourage the dreaded diesel bug issues. Try and keep fuel tanks full, this does two things: it lowers the chance of water causing problems to the fuel and, if you have a fuel leak in the system, it gives you clear indication there are problems.
Tank condition: With the design of most steel canal craft the fuel tank makes up a large part of the rear of the craft. It’s never easy to fully inspect, especially if you haven’t got a drain-down plug on the tank. However, taking a sample with a hose and siphon pump into a jar can also help show the condition of the fuel. If you find you have the dreaded diesel bug then either draining the tank and deep cleaning is often the only way to deal with it. There are some companies who do successfully clean the fuel and put an additive in to help.
Fuel lines and filters: Replace filters every year. Check condition of the fuel lines, ensure they are well supported and any rubber hoses are in good condition, not rubbing on edges or fittings within the engine compartment. Look out for perishing and ensure they are marked ISO7840. Most rubber hoses have a good operational life of about 10 years.
Batteries: Over the last 12 months many batteries may have not been properly cycled with a good discharge etc. Batteries like being worked so I have already seen issues where they are completely dead and won’t retake a charge. Check that batteries are secure and not relying on the main cabling to hold them in position. Likewise, check terminals are properly covered and fitted in good vented frames/boxes. Ensure they are about 10mm apart to ensure they don’t overheat when on charge.
Alternator: Check the condition of wires to and from the alternator are secure and when the engine is running check it actually charges the batteries; some control panels have a light or voltmeter. With shore power and onboard charging systems, sometimes a faulty battery or alternator isn’t spotted until you’ve been relying on the batteries so it’s well worth running systems at the berth for a while without shore power connected. If you are unsure of the battery condition they can have a drop test undertaken that will quickly confirm cell condition.
Drive belts: On many engines there will be two drive belts – one for the engine alternator and the second for a domestic bank charging plus engine water pumps, depending on the type of system. Very often with drive belts and pulleys, small amounts of corrosion will almost certainly develop on the pulley “vees”; this will become abrasive to the rubber drive belts and in some cases will caused the belt to fail in hours. The first clue is to the inside of the engine compartment when the drives potentially will throw rubber fines on to the areas of the alternator bodies.
The second is to use your phone camera and take a quick snap of the pulleys and enlarge it. Lastly the most obvious is that the belt will, despite having been tensioned, become slack in just a few hours.
Coolant systems: This winter there has been a real risk of freezing of the system so before you start the engine check the body of the engine casting for any fractures to the water jacket. If it has an internal water system check the water levels. If it’s low investigate why. The majority of the craft on the inland waters have some means of internal water-cooled engine that does rely on a good water circulation, with one or two skin tanks fitted. With this type of coolant systems, the water should have antifreeze to protect the system. Most modern antifreezes have corrosion inhibitors in them, which can go stale after about two or three years; it’s very important to replace it with the correct type of antifreeze. Ensure you mix it to a suitable strength to protect the engine for the next few seasons. Once started, see the engine warm up and check it is circulating the water and it’s not overheating.
Water pump: Check each season the condition of the water pump impeller(s) and pump housing condition, ensure you have spares and the right tools on board to be able to change them. When the engine is running, monitor any temperature gauges or alarms fitted as these will prove quite useful.
Engine: Check the condition of all water hoses. Watch out for perishing of them especially where they are tightly returned through bulkheads. If you have a calorifier, don’t forget to look at the hoses to and from it as well. If your engine has a raw water system, look at the condition of the sea cock and the security of clamps within the run. Double clamping is strongly advised.
Engine security: Engine mounts normally fail from perishing or from oil contamination rather than going soft from use. Mounts vary depending on the type of installation but with frequent checking you will get an idea when they are not right while the engine is running. Generally, rubber mounts last about 10 years.
Exhaust: A regular check to the condition of the pipework and security of any joints is important. With dry exhaust systems it is essential to ensure the system is airtight or there is a very high risk of filling the compartment and accommodation with carbon monoxide. One simple test is with the engine running, use a rag and hold it over the discharge briefly and listen for any blowing within the run. Check your carbon monoxide alarm still works.
As ever, if in doubt get an expert to do the checks at the same time as a service. I hope you have a great trouble-free season. Find many helpful tips on my YouTube channel: Ben Sutcliffe Marine.