View with a room
Trail suggests spending the night in the Lakes’ most remote hostel...
Where is it? At the head of Ennerdale valley in the Lake District, accessible only on foot or by bike at NY194123.
What’s it like? Delightfully wild in setting, and simple and snug inside, Black Sail is a YHA spin on a mountain hut. The converted shepherd’s bothy is located at the head of Ennerdale, where the slopes of Haystacks, Great Gable and Brandreth meet and the grand wall of Pillar can be seen from the wooden bench outside. It’s about as remote a hostel as you’ll find in the Lakes, with no access by car – but your options for reaching this hillwalkers’ haven are plentiful. Most commonly, visitors trek 10km up from Bowness on Ennerdale Water or nip up and over Scarth Gap from Buttermere, but a stopover can be looped in to many brilliant high-level walks. When you arrive, you’ll find a small stone building with a communal lounge and flickering fire. This is open all day and the bunkrooms (three of them, all simple) are open from 5pm. It’s entirely off-grid, with no internet and power only for lights. At 7pm, a plate full of hearty hill grub is served up by the warden and everyone digs in together. It’s ‘get-what-you’re-given’ fare, though allowances are made for dietary requirements if you contact them in advance. The night unwinds, lubricated by wine or beer available from the hostel. Gradually, folk duck outside to find the toilet and shower in small stone outbuildings, or to retire to bed. It’s all stars and silence, or the scatter of rain and a yodelling wind. For some, this is an extremely rustic escape; for others, a luxurious bothy experience.
Vibe Part hostel, part bothy, part local pub. Cosy, sociable, low-key comfort in an isolated mountain valley.
TV? No. Neither is there any electricity (except for lights). However there are board games... Mobile reception? Limited. You’ll probably have to climb a hill to find it. Wi-Fi? None.
Typical clientele Mountain bikers and climbers, but mostly walkers and those who simply want a switched-off weekend.
How much does it cost? £35 for one of the 16 beds in single-sex dorms. Many hire the whole place out. It’s £8.50 for dinner, £5.75 for packed lunch and 10 per cent off breakfast if you book online. Discounts for YHA members.
Contact 0345 371 9680