3 Orkney Islands ROUTES AROUND
The Old Man, creepy little Dwarfie and Ronald Turnbull – they all invite you aboard the Stromness Ferry.
When it comes to the Orkneys, Hoy is the highlight. Some do it in a day, with a snapshot pic of the Old Man and a hurried taxi ride back to the Stromness ferry. But its two main hills call for a more relaxed two-day trip. Rackwick Hostel is perfectly placed at the halfway point; the Rackwick bothy is even better, with the Atlantic Ocean splashing on the doorstep and great sandstone cliffs rising on either side. The sunset peeps through the sea arch of Rora Head, and at dawn the white ferry creeps along the sea horizon. A short but sublimely windswept outing on Orkney Mainland takes you to an almostisland and a 3m via ferrata. TRANSPORT
Northlink Ferries Aberdeen to Kirkwall (bus links to Stromness) or Scrabster to Stromness www. northlinkferries.co.uk, other options including flights see www.orkneyferries.co.uk/ getting_to_orkney.php; island bus timetables www.orkney.gov. uk (see 'transport'); Graemsay
ferry (passengers, bikes, no cars) from Stromness to North Hoy www.orkneyferries.co.uk (01856) 872044; taxi on Hoy Mr Clark (01856) 791315. All Orkney transport is liable to disruption due to weather; the Graemsay ferry can fail to show if timetable coincides with low tide
PUBS/GRUB On Hoy bring your own provisions;
Kirkwall Hotel has good food and a great harbour view ACCOMMODATION In Stromness: Brown's Hostel 45-47 Victoria St (01856) 850661 brownsorkney.co.uk;
Hamnavoe Hostel 10A North End Rd (01856) 851202 www. hamnavoehostel.co.uk; Hoy
Centre (01856) 873535, near ferry, and Rackwick Hostel (01856) 873535 www.orkney. gov.uk; Burnmouth bothy at Rackwick Bay
PRACTICALITIES Kirkwall and Stromness have all facilities
TOURIST INFO
Kirkwall iCentre (01856) 872856; www.visitorkney.com www.hoyorkney.com