North to West
Chiz Dakin discovers a fabulous high-level wild camping route across the Lakes, rarely dropping below 500m in 50km.
Nothing gives a greater sense of purpose to a walk than going from one place to another, across the highest fells. Especially if you can fit 11 Wainwrights into the route. Fabulous views are guaranteed throughout, from the sight of Derwent Water and Blencathra as you rise up Walla Crag, through the first glimpse of Great End on the climb up Ullscarf, to the 360° panorama that greets you atop Scafell Pike.
And you can feel smug that you’ve reached the highest point in England from a wild-camping start and not via the tourist route! There’s even a steam train at the end if you prefer to finish at Eskdale Green and ignore the final low-level Muncaster Fell. TRANSPORT Bus X4/5 from Penrith to Workington stops at Keswick for the start. To return from Ravenglass: train to Workington www.nationalrail.co.uk, then bus X4/5. Optional steam train (La’al Ratty) from Eskdale to Ravenglass (summer only).
PUBS/GRUB Most of this route will be your own camping stove. St Mungo’s Deli in Keswick; Bower House Inn, Eskdale (01946) 723244; Eskdale Green Stores, (01946) 723229.
ACCOMMODATION Your tent or bivvy bag! This route is divided into three days, but you can choose your own camp spots. Be aware that the Great End to Scafell plateaus offer little shelter and a lot of stones! Leave no trace and camp responsibly (see www.lakedistrict.gov. uk/visiting/where-to-stay/ wild-camping). Also, wide choice of B&Bs in Keswick; The Inn at Ravenglass theinnatravenglass.co.uk (01229) 717230; Rosegarth Guest House, Ravenglass, rose-garth.co.uk (01229) 717275.
PRACTICALITIES Keswick has all amenities. There's a small seasonal farm shop on the outskirts at Springs Farm; a village shop in Eskdale Green; Ravenglass has limited accommodation, and a few refreshment options.
TOURIST INFO Keswick Information Centre, Moot Hall (01768) 772645, www. lakedistrict.gov.uk