Dufton Pike, Backstone Edge & High Cup
1 NY688251 Walk north-west from Dufton village green, with a whitewashed village hall on the left, and follow the lane downhill between houses. Ignore the lane on the left, but immediately afterwards fork right on the track towards the red sandstone buildings at Coatsike Farm. The shapely cone of Dufton Pike can be seen ahead. Go straight ahead between the buildings and continue north on the track, an old drove road
named as Hurning Lane on the map. This is lined by fences, walls and trees but can become quite muddy after wet weather. Continue through gates at the empty farm at Halsteads and follow the rough track over the grassy hump of Cosca Hill. This bends right and descends to an old clapper bridge over Great Rundale Beck. Don’t cross the bridge but walk east on a grass path, over two stiles, to reach Open Access land.
2 NY696272 Turn south to climb the northern flanks of Dufton Pike. Meet the ridge after 250m and join a faint path leading south-east to the summit. Continue south-east and steeply descend to a gate. Turn left on a good track, continue through the next gate and walk on to another gate where the track bends right below Bluethwaite Hill. After 1.3km pass a fine old lime kiln and veer left towards prominent old mine workings at Threlkeld Side. Turn right and follow an increasingly rocky track uphill to emerge, eventually, by an isolated shooting hut.
3 Y728283 Turn south, now on pathless terrain, to skirt the west side of Great Rundale Tarn. Head south-west for 700m to reach the trig point on Backstone Edge and continue south-southeast along the edge of the escarpment for about 1.5km, with a scattering of peaty tarns to the left. In clear conditions, you will enjoy uninterrupted views towards the Lake District fells. Follow the crest of the escarpment as it bends east and continue to the cairn by Narrowgate Beacon. Descend over rocks and shake holes to join the Pennine Way running along the north side of dramatic High Cup. Look out for the slender rocky finger named Nichol Chair (NY740260) after a local cobbler climbed to the top and managed to mend a pair of boots while looking over the huge U-shaped glaciated valley. The pinnacle is one of several basalt columns (part of the famous Whin Sill) running along the lip of High Cup.
4NY745261 W H Auden described the scenery here as “one of the holy places of the earth” and the descent via High Cup Nick (a cleft in the cliffs) is a suitably exciting way to enter the valley. Do not follow the large stream leaving the rim, but find the smaller stream slightly to the west and take the path dropping south-west beside a waterfall. This is rough going with some exposure and the path crosses two boulderfields on the way to the valley floor. Follow the east side of the emerging stream to the corner of a wall. Cross a stile and keep ahead on an indistinct path below Middletongue Crag. Continue south-west to pick up a farm track with ford, go through a gate and keep ahead to follow signs through farm buildings at Harbour Flatt. The track leads to a gate at a lane.
5NY718231 Turn right for almost 4km to return to Dufton, passing (or not!) an unexpected winery at Town Head.