Winter skills:

Ice axe and crampons masterclass

The winter mountains feel out of my reach because I don’t know how to use an ice axe and crampons. It all looks pretty scary and technical. Is it? Jon, via email Q No! We’re not going to say it’s easy, but it’s not as hard as it looks. The security given by being able to correctly use an ice axe and crampons (see page 60) on a slippery slope is addictively smile-inducing, and the potential this opens up – to keep enjoying the hills in the most stunning weather imaginable – far outweighs the small investment of time and money it takes to learn these two basic skills.

WHY DO I NEED AN AXE?

Axes act as a balance – a portable handhold to bite into steep ground – and stop you sliding on snow and ice should your feet go from beneath you and you start to slip down a slope or towards a drop. They range from about £40 to well over £100, and generally last a lifetime if bought wisely and cared for.

WHAT KIND DO I NEED?

There are three types of ice axes: climbing, mountaineering and walking.

Walking axes have straight shafts with a relaxed pick and adze. Their primary purpose is for balance, cutting steps and self-arrest. Having a non-technical specification means they can be made of lighter materials, making them more comfortable to carry and use.

Mountaineering axes can handle technical terrain and can also be used in pairs, but are also long enough to provide balance while walking on steep ground. They generally have a bent shaft, but the lower portion is straight to allow for plunging into snow. They tend to be of a light construction but are still strong enough to withstand belay loading (when the axe is used with rope to anchor a climber), and their picks are less aggressive to allow for easier self-arrest (where the axe is used to stop a slide on ice).

Climbing axes come in pairs to be used on ice, snow and mixed terrain. Their construction is extremely robust but their curved shape makes them almost useless for general walking.

AXE CLASSIFICATION

In terms of classifications you will see one of two markings on the head: ‘T’ or ‘B’. T indicates technical and means it’s highly durable and built for heavy loading. B indicates basic, meaning it is lighter but less robust. You may find an axe with a

T-rated shaft and a B-rated head, although most axes are either entirely T- or B-rated.