Trail (UK)

Snowdonia

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1 SH645314 From the car park turn right and beyond the first farm building go left (signed ÔTo ClipÕ). After entering a small field enclosure, bend rightwards and go through a break in the wall. The path is faint and can be concealed by thick bracken. Climb leftwards onto rocky outcrops and enjoy the superb view of Llyn Cwm Bychan. Head north to pick up a more distinct path and follow it rightwards to a stile. With the crenellate­d gritstone terraces of Clip towering above, the way ahead continues through heather and over boggy ground until reaching another stile at Bwlch Gwylim, one of three important Rhinogydd passes.

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From the Bwlch, turn right to discover an extensive tableland of peat and boulder. Stay well left of the drystone wall, which points the way over pathless terrain to a low crag; this can be passed via a break on its right-hand side. Climb out of the gully to the next tier and weave your way onto a cairned top. An exploratio­n of the eastern perimeter will reveal two stunning bodies of water Ð Llyn Twr-glas and Llyn Pryfed respective­ly. In the near distance the high point of the ridge (Craig WionÕs summit) can be seen and an easy 400 metres followed by a short clamber will take you beside another cairn. Things are about to get spicy!

SH664319 Drop 3 down from the cairn, following grassy breaks onto a bleak heathery depression. ItÕs here that the ridge Ôdog-legsÕ from a north-easterly to a south-westerly direction. Trend rightwards to crest the ridge and head along its ups and downs using intermitte­nt paths until a deep ravine is met. This is the first of four major gorges in the Craig Wion ridge and marks the start of the ÔCeltic BadlandsÕ. Be in no doubt, this is as wild as Snowdonia gets. Crossing these transverse canyons requires care and good mountain sense. The way into them is more often than not obvious by following signs of human traffic, but once in their depths it's important to make sure that you are following a trodden path, rather than improvisin­g an exit. A little poking around may be required before the correct way is found. Each canyon is followed by immense, tilted gritstone slabs, littered with glacial erratics, helping to create a scene which will have you keeping an eye out for pterodacty­ls hell-bent on your sandwiches! Finally, the last rise is met, and Llyn Morwynion comes into view, trapped in its remote sunken bowl. The hard work is over and an easy descent leads to Bwlch Tyddiad, the top of the Roman Steps.

SH660299 It's widely 4 believed that the ÔstepsÕ are not of Roman origin but form part of a medieval packhorse route from a time when bandits and brigands ambushed the unwary. Even today there remains the feeling that someone or something is watching as you turn right and follow the steps down! Go through a gate and continue through an unkempt valley. The way ahead is plain to see and crosses an old packhorse bridge before entering ancient woodland. A stile leads to a walled track, at the end of which a gate on the left delivers you back to the car park.

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 ??  ?? Escaping one of Craig Wion's many canyons.
Escaping one of Craig Wion's many canyons.
 ??  ?? Clip rises up above the Roman Steps on the return leg.
Clip rises up above the Roman Steps on the return leg.

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