CWM LLAFAR ROUND
A high-level loop around the Carneddau’s wildest corner with an airy ridge thrown in for good measure.
There can be few greater mountain contrasts than the one between the close proximity peaks at the head of Cwm Llafar. On one hand, you have the perfect pyramidal elegance of Yr Elen and, on the other, the brutally dark flanks of Carnedd Dafydd and Carnedd Llewelyn. Exploring the ying and yang delights of these three Snowdonian giants is often done as part of other walks, most commonly by the full Carneddau Traverse. This, however, ignores the unifying element, and that is the long, wild and rather lonely Cwm Llafar. This deep, super-corrie cuts right into the heart of the range, but because its entrance is tucked away behind Bethesda, and slightly off the beaten track, it tends to attract few visitors. This is a pity, as its sea-facing aspect generates an incredible atmosphere, with the restless coastal light constantly changing the mood and highlighting different features at different times.
To explore this special place, a neat approach is to do a skewed horseshoe walk. Slightly unconventional, it starts off with a long valley approach and climbs to the skyline a third of the way in, rather than straight away. This involves heading out of Bethesda, with a wonderful warm-up along Cwm Caseg. From here, there is a climb up the clean-cut arête of Yr Elen’s north-east ridge. This is nicely complemented by a walk over the imposing summit crests of Carnedd Llewelyn and Carnedd Dafydd. This route is partially pathless and involves a couple of exposed sections so, to make navigation easy and to ensure you enjoy the sights – the views are amazing – aim to do it under clear skies.
1 SH633662 Bethesda is a busy residential area and parking can be tricky. Try not to restrict access, take up residents parking or block drives, and avoid parking close to businesses or farms. From the road junction, take the minor road and access track east then north as it winds its way to the pumping station. Pass the pumping station and turn east along the track.
2 SH657669 As you climb higher into Cwm Caseg you pass a rough collection of drystone walls. This is a prehistoric settlement and was originally a group of hut circles and stock enclosures. After the settlement remains, the track becomes less distinct. Roughly follow the course of the Afon Caseg east then south-east to enter the corrie of upper Cwm Caseg.
3 SH678650 Ffynnon Caseg lake is set in an idyllic position and is sheltered – great for a pit stop. The crags that ring it hold snow well and provide lower grade winter climbs. From the mouth of Ffynnon Caseg the route climbs steeply up the scree to gain the crest of Yr Elen’s north-east ridge. It’s a bit of a slog and is best done in zigzags. Once the ridge is gained, things ease up a bit and the crest provides an excellent finish.
4 SH673650 On reaching Yr Elen’s summit, an amazing panorama of the whole of the towering crags of Ysgolion Duon opens out in front of you. These aptly named ‘Black Cliffs’ hold some of the most challenging winter climbs in Wales. In summer the vegetated and damp rocks are pretty awful for climbing, but after a hard freeze and a good dump of snow they produce some really magnificent routes – though mostly at the harder end of the grade scale. To clear the summit and gain Carnedd Llewelyn, you need to head south-east down to a narrow col, which is crossed, with airy drops on both sides. A fine ridge then leads straight on to Carnedd Llewelyn’s huge summit dome.
5 SH683644 Carnedd Llewelyn is the hub of the Carneddau range with all the main ridges and cwms radiating away from it. Wandering around the edge of its summit plateau gives you a speedy overview of some of the range’s best features. Once you have enjoyed the views, a pleasant ridge-top path leads south to a narrow col. From the col, the ridge (and the path) then swings west and traces a line above the cliff edge of Ysgolion Duon to gain the slightly lower, but no less grand, summit of Carnedd Dafydd.
6 SH662630 Yet another spectacular set of views opens out from Carnedd Dafydd, this time over the deep trench of the Ogwen Valley towards the crag-ringed summits of the Glyderau. Tryfan, viewed from this angle, is still very easily recognisable, but perhaps less impressive than from its craggier eastern side. To descend back towards Bethesda, leave the summit, heading north-west and drop down the rounded ridge.
7 SH657636 After about 1km, the ridge opens out into a broad and featureless slope. Turn north and head for the more defined ridge over Mynydd Du. Descend this rounded ridge until you reach the south bank of Afon Llafar at the old dam.
8 SH649653 Join the path beside the Afon Llafar and head north-west down the path to a bridge. Cross the bridge and follow the road downhill to the junction at the start.