The best... winter boots
YOUR GUIDE TO CHOOSING THE PERFECT PAIR FOR YOU
Uppers
Stiff uppers are better for rocky ground and winter use, and allow crampon straps to be comfortably fitted. Softer uppers are more comfortable and so are best for valley walking where less support and protection is required than on rocky mountains.
Outsole
For winter walking, look for grooves that are spaced at a distance of at least twice the thickness of a pound coin. Lug depths less than this are ideal for hill and valley walking. But if the lugs are less than the depth of a single coin, they won’t give much grip in mud or on grass, and they’ll also wear down quickly on harder surfaces. The heel breast (the cutaway section between forefoot and heel) should be three times the thickness of a pound coin for hillwalking above or below the snowline. Boots with shallower heel breasts are best kept to good valley paths.
Midsole
Grab the boot by the toe and heel, and bend the heel towards the toe. Then twist the toe while holding the heel steady. The harder it is to bend the boot, the better suited it is to snow and rocky ground, and crampon use. The softer the flex, the better the boot is suited to use on good paths in the valley. A 3-4 season boot is stiffer than a 3-season boot but not as stiff as a 4-season boot.
Waterproofness
If the upper is made of one piece of leather, or is relatively stitch-free, the boot will be as waterproof as most people will require – particularly if it is made of thick leather. Boots that are covered in stitching or those made with synthetic materials will leak more easily and are more prone to wear, but a waterproof lining such as Gore-Tex will make the boot waterproof.
Toe box
Press the toe box with your thumb and then pinch it on the sides. If it flexes or dents easily, the boot is best restricted to good paths in the valley, while a stiffer toe box or a boot with a rand is better for rocky mountains and winter use.
Durability
Stitching will come apart over time, so a boot with minimal stitching will be most durable.
But double stitching improves the durability considerably and adds extra security to the seams. Stiff uppers made of thick leather will be more durable than those made of synthetic materials. To improve durability, look for a rubber rand around the sides, toes and heels. The most durable boots are best for rocky mountain use and winter use, while less durable designs are best kept to valley paths.
Fit
Finding a boot that fits your foot shape as well as your size is critical. The best boot in the world is only useful if it fits your foot! The inside of the boot should be around 13-15mm (half an inch) longer than your foot. With the laces loosened off, you can measure this by sliding a finger down the inside of the boot in the gap behind your heel and seeing if it fits comfortably. The upper should be snug and comfy. Women’s boots are generally narrower at the heel. Walk around the shop and feel for any heel movement or lift. Better shops can help with boot fitting, so do ask.
Cushioning
With the boots on, stamp your feet on the ground to get an idea of how well they can cushion impact. More cushioning is best for walking, but climbers may prefer less cushioning to allow a greater ‘feel’ for what they are standing on.
Support
Choose boots with minimal underfoot support for walking on good valley paths, but those with a stiffer sole and plenty of support underfoot for use on rocky mountain terrain. A stiffer sole can feel harder to walk on in the valley but can reduce fatigue on the foot on uneven ground.
Heel cup
Pinch the heel cup between the fingers.
If it is soft and flexible it won’t offer much support, so such boots are best restricted to valley path use, while boots with stiffer heel cups are better for rocky mountain walks and winter use where maximum support is useful.