The Eigiau Horseshoe
Remote, challenging, melancholy and eerie are just some of the adjectives which could describe this rewarding Snowdonian circuit.
Sprawling and secretive, Cwm Eigiau harbours many tales for those who might seek to learn of its chequered history. It is a valley which once would have been bustling with activity as scores of men, in search of slate, plundered the feet of Pen Helig. Before them, a handful of shepherds inhabited several small farmsteads at a time when the profound silence was broken only by the bleating of sheep, the raven’s throaty cronk and the whinnying of wild ponies for which these hills have been home for several millennia. Pre-dating the shepherds was neolithic man whose settlements were littered around the northern Carneddau, traces of which can still be seen today.
It is, however, two more recent events that have shaped the prevailing atmosphere of this lonely mountain sanctuary but we’ll deal with them later... For now, let us contemplate a stupendous hill walk which encircles the cwm, visits three mountain summits and drops down to a deep, sombre llyn where a bothy awaits those who wish to spend an evening communing with ghosts of the past or, perhaps, other hillgoers similarly bent on wringing as much out of this evocative landscape as possible.
1
SH731663 From the parking area, hop over the stile and follow the track towards the dam. The scene is sombre and austere, with your first peak appearing distant and aloof. After 1.2km the dam is close at hand and rent by a curious breach. It was here on November 2nd 1925 that the dam failed, sending billions of gallons of water down onto the village of Dolgarrog which resulted in the loss of 16 lives. A memorial garden in the village stands as a tribute to those who perished on that terrible evening. Beyond the breach, the track continues and crosses the outflow of the llyn before passing below the whitewashed walls of Hafod y Rhiw. As the track continues ignore the right-hand fork and aim for the spoil heaps of the old quarry, from the bottom of which the track is left for a grind up the steep sloes and onto a heathery shoulder. Pen Llithrig yr Wrach is your goal from here and a vague path takes you towards the climb to its bare summit.
2
SH716623 The view is stunning, with the peaks of the Ogwen Valley seen to great advantage and the deep waters of Llyn Cowlyd appearing unobstructed down the precipitous southeastern slopes of the mountain. It’s only now that a true picture of what lies ahead can be appreciated, with Carnedd Llewelyn a considerable distance and hundreds of metres of ascent away. Strike off north-west and pick up a developing path that descends to Bwlch y Tri Marchog before embarking on a dispiriting slog up onto Pen yr Helgi Du. The descent of PyHD is steep, airy and requires care but is short-lived and soon you will be striding across Bwlch Eryl Farchog, the narrowest ridge in the Carneddau. At its terminus a short, slabby bad step is encountered. But contrary to first appearances it is an imposter; a few easy moves solve the problem and once again all is well with the world. The path now climbs and weaves through rocky terrain before levelling out for the final push to the high point of the day. A clear path can be followed but better still, by hugging the rim of Cwm Eigiau it is possible to enjoy breathtaking rock scenery. Just before the final ascent of the third highest peak south of the border, Ffynnon Llyffant is disclosed far below. This was the scene of a catastrophic accident which occurred on December 9th 1957, when on the return leg of a flight from Pershore in Worcestershire a Canberra WK 129 crashed near the summit of Carnedd Llewelyn killing all on board.
3
SH683643 Llewelyn’s summit calls for a well-earned rest, and the view south is a memorable one. In poor visibility it is important to get your bearings and make sure you continue in the correct direction, as the path isn’t obvious. Start off north-north-east and where the contours start to widen veer north-east and gain a featureless plateau south-east of Foel Grach. Care is needed here as you descend pathless broken ground to Melynllyn, where a path can be picked up and followed to the eerie environs of Dulyn. The bothy is a short distance northeast of Dulyn’s outflow.
4
SH705663 From the bothy there is a path which follows the Afon Dulyn for a route out of the cwm. It is, however, often very boggy. The best option is to reascend to Melynllyn and take the reservoir track back to the parking area.