Wasdale Traverse, Lake District
This route walks the skyline of the Lake District National Park’s famous logo, in one, full-on, roller coaster of a mountain day.
There’s a time and a place for getting excited about going for a walk, and now is one of them. This route around Wasdale Head hits some big names, yet skirts out into quieter corners. Truly a classic if ever there was one.
Starting at the car park on the green (map point 1, NY187085) in Wasdale Head, it’s a case of taking the usual path to the east and Sty Head. The higher sections of this route show the Lake District mountains at their best. The Scafell massif and the gaping chasm of Piers Gill dominate the views to the south. The green and pleasant land that is Wasdale Head starts to look almost toy-like. Nothing ever seems to move there, time appears to stand still. The stretcher box and Sty Head pass (map point 2, NY219095) are not far off. It’s the perfect place for a breather. Consider yourself broken in.
The ghost of Gable
It’s said that a headless figure haunts Sty Head pass. It gets even better... the figure carries a bag by his side, which moves like it contains living creatures. How random is that? There’s much more to do right now than worry about ghost stories though, as the south-east flank of Great Gable needs to be climbed, the first of the emblematic trio that make up the logo of the Lake District. It’s a rough climb, but worth it. Gable is magnificent. Once at the
top (map point 3, NY211103) you’ll probably notice the war memorial and at least a few poppies. Each Remembrance Sunday there’s a service held on this very spot.
Britain’s best view?
If you feel fit and fancy a little extra from today, then a short detour out and (unfortunately) down to Westmorland Cairn is well worth it, reputedly one of the best views in the Lakes. Wast Water stretches out, with the Screes plunging down into them, creating the deepest lake in England. I’ll let you into a little secret, I think I know a better view. What’s more, we’re going there next ....
Watch your step
Getting off Great Gable to the northnorth-west takes a little care if the weather isn’t clear. There are numerous paths and it’s rocky going. Make sure you get the right one. It takes you down into one of the many cols of the day. This one (map point 4, NY205107) at Beck
Head has a little tarn in it, although it’s sometimes more of a puddle. As soon as you start to climb Rib End, the easterly ridge that leads up to Kirk Fell, you’ll start to leave the main crowds behind. Kirk Fell is a huge great steaming jam pudding of a mountain. In other words; it’s a lump.
Rib End soon slackens in gradient and the vastness of the hill comes into view, along with its twin summits. The first one encountered from the east has a spot height of 787m, then between it and the true summit is Kirkfell Tarn. There’s a lot of space up here, with a real plateau feel, in contrast to its more pointy neighbours. Once at the top (map point 5, NY195105) you get that view I promised you. Look towards Great Gable, the Scafells and over towards Wast Water – it’s all impressive. The real star of the show is Great Gable, looking mighty fine from this angle. Great place for a lunch stop.
Lakeland’s wild valley
A steep, in places, path leads down over Kirkfell Crags terminating at Black Sail
Pass. But hold on a minute, the Ennerdale valley looks like something plucked out of the Canadian Rockies. Just think what it’s going to look like in another fifty years when the re-wilding project, which the valley is undergoing, has really taken effect. Black Sail YHA is almost within touching distance. At Black Sail Pass (map point 6, NY192114) we’re probably about halfway through the day. If you enjoyed the first, you’ll love the second.
Look out for falcons
It’s a good couple of kilometres up to Pillar, taking in Looking Stead along the way. Again it’s worthy of a little detour; stand on its summit and look west along the climbers’ traverse and Pillar’s northeast face, it’s a grand spectacle. There’s always a chance of seeing peregrines in the mountains, but this area reminds me of one particular time, about 15 years ago. I was on my way to Pillar rock (to climb it via the ‘Slab & Notch’ route), when I sensed something had just happened. Half a second later a pigeon
(minus its head) crashed to the ground, not 20ft away, obviously very dead. A quick look up into the sky, and there circled a male peregrine, bristling with annoyance that I was stopping it from collecting its prey. I moved on quickly.
Drink in the views
Pillar summit (map point 7, NY171121) is a bare, rocky dome with a couple of low shelters. Head to the edge of the summit plateau, to the north, and you’ll be able to see Pillar Rock. From here it’s a gentle sweep down to the south-west into Wind Gap (map point 8, NY168117) before the path rears up onto the 828m spot height. Here take a good look down to the south-east, into the Mosedale valley. Red Pike looks savage from this angle. Little Scoat Fell is next (map point 9, NY158114) and time for another little detour if you have it in you. Head out onto Steeple, it would be rude not to. Once you see it you won’t be able to resist. From its summit the views out over Ennerdale are blooming ace.
As you head south-east off Little Scoat Fell, Red Pike again steals the show. I think this is one of the most dramatic surprise views of the day. Once on the summit of Red Pike (map point 10, NY165107) take stock, because it’s a case of saving the best till last; Yewbarrow. Dropping down to Dore Head (map point 11, NY174096), you do feel like you’re really out there. Yet the reality is, you’re a stone’s throw from Wasdale Head.
Save the best ’til last...
So here we go, the final peak of the National Park logo. An easy short Grade 1 scramble leads up the northern end of Yewbarrow, which is fun, even on tired legs. The summit area of Yewbarrow is actually about 1.5km long, with two summits, the lower to the north at 616m and the main summit further south. It’s a really interesting mountain. From the road it looks pointy, but once you’re on it long and flat. You’ll relish the ease of the walk along the top. The name is derived from the fact that many yew trees grew on it and because it looks a bit like a barrow. The summit (map point 12, NY174085) is a good time to turn around and take in everything you’ve done. Wast Water looms in the other direction. I love it up here, definitely one of my top three Lakeland peaks.
Tired legs will need to take it easy on the final, steep decent down the southern end of Yewbarrow. This path stays initially on the ridge, passing the Great Door, then veers out onto the north-west side of the ridge for an easier line. You don’t want to be down-scrambling on Bell Rib at this stage in the game. Your legs will be feeling it by the time you get to the base at map point 13, NY166070.
The day is completed by a stroll back up the road to Wasdale Head and, of course, at least three pints and a meal before you retire to your welcome bed. This is a day of days. Do it on a clear forecast and make memories that last, because hillwalks don’t get much better than this.