A FESTIVAL OF FIRSTS

As befits such a pioneering climber, Doug Scott made a huge number of first ascents during his mountaineering career. Below you’ll find just some of his key ‘first’ achievements.

■ 1962 First ascents on Mer de Glace Face of Comes des Chamois, France and South-East Cracks of Tadaft n’Gou Imrlay on Toubkal, Morocco.

■ 1965 First expedition organised to the Saharan Tibesti Mountains, Chad. First ascents of Tarso Tierokoby West Ridge and the North Face.

■ 1967 Hindu Kush expedition – First ascent of South Face of Koh-i-Bandaka and first winter ascent of the East Face of Koh-i-Sisgeikh, Afganistan.

■ 1969 First British ascent of Salathe Wall, El Capitan, Yosemite.

■ 1971 Baffin Island trip. First winter ascent of the East Face of Killabuk.

■ 1972 First ascent of the East Pillar of Mount Asgard, Baffin Island.

■ 1974 First ascent of Changabang, India.

■ 1975 First British ascent of Everest via the South-West Face.

■ 1976 First alpine ascent of the South Face Diagonal of Denali, Alaska.

■ 1977 First winter ascent of The Ogre by the West Ridge, Pakistan.

■ 1979 First ascent of the North Ridge of Kangchenjunga, Nepal, without oxygen.

■ 1981 First ascent of the East Pillar of Shivling, India.

■ 1982 First winter ascent, alpine style, of the South-East Face of Shishapangma, China.

■ 1983 First ascent of Lob sang Spire by the South Pillar, Pakistan.

■ 1985 First ascent of Minipin, Pakistan.

■ 1986 First ascent of South-East Face Direct on Mount Colonel Foster, Canada. ■ 1988 First ascent of Jitchu Drake by South Face, Bhutan.

■ 1990 First winter ascent of The Indian Arete, Latok 3, Pakistan.

■ 1991 First ascent of Hanging Glacier Peak South by the South Ridge, Nepal. ■ 1992 First British ascent of Chimtarga, Fanskiye Mountains, Tadzhikistan.

■ 1998 First ascent of Chombu East, India.

■ 2000 First ascent of Targo Ri, Tibet.

You can read about more of Doug’s firsts, plus his other climbing and mountaineering accomplishments, at dougscottmountaineering.co.uk