Carnedd Llewelyn, Snowdonia
Take the path less trodden up Wales’ third highest peak and the Carneddau will reward you in myriad ways.
The southern ridges of the Carneddau are popular with those wishing to avoid the crowds on the other side of the Ogwen Valley, with Carnedd Llewelyn the incidental high point of a peak-bagging orgy. It seems obscene, however, to treat this venerable old lump as an afterthought, for some mountains have that indefinable something that others lack. Llewelyn is one of ‘those’ mountains and should, at times, be climbed for it’s own sake. But how?
For an arbiter of good taste there is only one right and proper way to climb the mountain in a manner that affords it due respect, while at the same time offering the walker a line of ascent that is both logical and beautiful in its purity and wild appeal. It is necessary to sneak, unseen from behind, for such a route requires stealth and cunning; and your reward for such devious tactics? They are myriad. Entry into a sequestered mountain haven, adventure away from the trodden ways and a pioneering ridge climb, not to mention tragic tales and a holy mountain top charged to bursting with spiritual energy by cosmic masters of the mysterious Aetherius Society. You have been warned!
1
SH731663 From the parking area, hop over the stile and follow the track towards the dam. The scene is sombre and austere with your first peak appearing distant and aloof. After 1.2km the dam is close at hand and rent by a curious breach. It was here on November 2nd 1925 that the dam failed, sending billions of gallons of water down onto the village of Dolgarrog which resulted in the loss of 16 lives. A memorial garden in the village stands as a tribute to those who perished on that terrible evening.
Beyond the breach, the track continues and crosses the outflow of the llyn before passing below the whitewashed walls of Hafod y Rhiw. Continue along the track which crosses the Afon Eigiau and passes Cwm Eigiau Cottage, the home of the Rugby Mountaineering Club. Before long you’ll arrive at an old slate quarry where the inner recesses of the cwm are revealed. The scene is dominated by Craig yr Ysfa, an enormous crag which, according to legend, was discovered by telescope from Scafell by the Abraham Brothers in the late 1800s.
2
SH702636 If you thought the going so far was wild and remote then your perceptions are about to be recalibrated! From the quarry buildings turn right and ascend the hillside via a network of streams until the ground flattens out. You are now in the middle of nowhere and almost as far away from a road as it is possible to get in north Wales. By heading west you will eventually find yourself at Ffynnon Llyffant (the Frog’s Spring), Wales’ highest lake at 815m and littered with the wreckage of Canberra B. Mk.2 WK1293 which crashed into Carnedd Llewelyn in December 1957. The escape from this sublime but sombre place is via the seldom trodden ridge to the left of the llyn. It’s a scrambly affair with barely a boot print on it and can be followed with varying degrees of difficulty according to your fancy. The ridge emerges on Pen y Waun Wen 60m beneath Llewelyn’s summit. Keep on trucking!
3
SH683643 So here we are, the third highest peak in Wales and if you’ve not been here for a while you’ll notice the summit shelter has been beautifully rebuilt, one of several in the national park with more to follow. A featureless dome it may be, but this is no mere ‘Moel’. Llewelyn is a powerful mountain,
Scottish in scale and the culmination of four major ridges, so once you’ve enjoyed the view (weather permitting) make sure you choose the correct one for the next leg of the journey. In all but good visibility your navigation skills need to be on point now, as you enter a vast tract of empty wilderness. Chart a course, roughly north-east, on a vague, stony path towards the spot height of 936m. After 1km you’ll reach the shallow saddle between Llewelyn and Foel Grach. From there a compass bearing of 66° will take you, after another km, to a breach in the steep walls above Dulyn and Melynllyn. The gradient soon eases onto a flat-topped ridge where, by a right trending descent you will arrive at the outflow of Melynllyn.
4
SH702658 After all the drama and effort of the day a good solid track is just what the doctor ordered to deliver you back to you vehicle. Your hands can go back in their pockets and you can switch off your mind and relax into an easy 4km walk out while gazing at wild ponies, buzzards and ravens.