7 DAYS TRAVEL Head for the Hill
Don’t believe everything you’ve heard about the awful Lake District weather, says ADRIAN HOGG
AS somewhere to get away from the memory of a wet and cold winter, the Lake District may seem an odd choice.
But such stunning scenery can cheer even the most jaundiced of souls.
Still, ever the realist – and someone who has spent a lot of time in Cumbria – we loaded the car with waterproofs, hats and gloves. Then we set off for Windermere safe in the knowledge that we were booked into a hotel that came complete with a leisure club to help cope with the worst the weather could throw at us.
Which shows how little I know. Not only was the weather glorious all weekend, but we never felt the need to leave the hotel and its extensive grounds from arrival to departure.
We were booked into the Beech Hill Hotel, just outside Bowness, which had stressed its views over Windermere and the reputation of its dining room, both of which seemed pretty good recommendations, given our plan to relax and maybe go for the odd walk.
The brochure had shown plenty of pictures of the very modernlooking leisure club, so we were half-expecting the whole hotel to be on the same lines.
What we hadn’t expected was the olde worlde (in a good way) charm of the rest of the building.
These days I tend to think a hotel will either be old-fashioned or modern but impersonal, so walking through the front door came as a bit of a surprise.
A large lounge/foyer greeted us, complete with lots of leather sofas and armchairs, wood panelling and an impressive staircase.
At the other end, full-length picture windows offered stunning views over the lake itself.
I didn’t quite expect to see Hercule Poirot giving his little grey cells a rest in the corner but it definitely had a timeless elegance, without making us feel we should have gone round to the tradesman’s entrance.
The hotel was part-way through an extensive refurbishment programme at the time of our visit but there was little sign of disruption and, as the stated aim is to modernise without destroying the atmosphere, there is every reason to believe the mix of character and modern will continue.
As we had arrived slightly early to check in, the friendly receptionist suggested we wait either on the terrace or try out the leisure club – it was a weekend of tough decisions – with the drink and terrace option winning.
While it looks quite pleasant from the front, it is at the rear that the hotel comes into its own. It is built as a series of terraces, with the main lounge/terrace on the top level and some of the rooms and leisure club on various levels below, then a garden leading down to its own jetty – handy for the surprisingly many people who seemed to arrive by various craft – from canoes to large yachts – to sample the food and drink.
The layout means guests get to enjoy the stunning views pretty much all the time, not only in the public areas but also with many of the rooms having their own balcony/patio area so you can sit and watch the world and water enthusiasts go by.
Happily it turned out we would have been right wherever we had decided to relax, because as that ultra-modern leisure club came complete with its own outdoor lounge area, including one of the largest, and warmest, spa baths you are likely to come across.
Apparently, the spa bath is popular even in the rain – but, The indoor pool despite my misgivings about the weather, we never had to put the theory to the test.
I’d be the first to admit that sunshine and warmth are not exactly guaranteed in the Lake District, but when you do get good weather you can absolutely guarantee you will end up in a conversation with someone along the lines of “if you knew you’d get this weather you would never go anywhere else” – and it is hard not to argue.
The clichés about the hills and lakes looking different every time you look at them are true, and while the Lakes built its reputation as a place for active holidays, from walking to watersports, it is also an ideal destination for pottering round the towns and villages, or even sitting and doing nothing.
After all, all those poets and writers had to get their inspiration somehow. Well, that was my excuse for creative inactivity.
Not that our whole time was dedicated to doing nothing. We had an appointment at the hotel’s highly recommended restaurant, Burlington’s, with the intriguing prospect of a Polish head chef specialising in English and French cuisine. It seemed rude to plump for a mere three courses when there was an option of five, and it was easy to see why the place was packed.
Judging from the car park and jetty, people come from far and wide to sample the fare.
The food (especially the desserts!) and service were both excellent and would have been worth the journey in themselves, but provided yet another highlight on a perfectly relaxing weekend.