CAFE CULTURE
‘Unique’ retro cafe has been serving city for over a century
S TROLL past all of the big high street chains and nestled in Swansea’s city centre you’ll find a ’50s-style cafe that hasn’t lost its original charm.
The Kardomah has been an institution in the city for moe than 100 years, having initially opened in Castle Street in 1905, with the likes of Dylan Thomas, and poets Vernon Watkins and Charles Fisher filling its seats and even becoming known as the Kardomah Gang.
Sadly, the cafe was destroyed in the Blitz, but for its many loyal customers Portland Street has become the place they have grown to call their “second home” for the past 62 years.
And it hasn’t changed a bit in that time, with its original tables, pillars, tiles and overall appearance staying exactly the same as the day it opened.
Owner Marcus Luporini, 50, has worked at the cafe for most of his life as his parents took it on in 1970 after his dad Pietro asked his employer if he could move to Swansea and run the business.
“My dad was employed as a troubleshooter who helped put businesses back on their feet,” he said.
“He was based in London at the time but came to Swansea and asked a favour of them as he wanted to relocate the family to Swansea.
“My parents ran it, and both my brother and sister worked in the business over the years but now me and my wife Louise own and run it.
“My dad was chef and my mum did the bookwork and everything behind the scenes. My dad was here 24/7.
“I have worked here pretty much all my life. I’ve grown up in the business. If I wanted pocket money I had to do a shift in the kitchen.”
The nostalgic pictures, patterned tables and mirrored walls are all part of what makes the cafe well-loved.
That hasn’t always been the case though, with diners at one point classing it as “old fashioned”, but in recent years it has come full circle with its retro vibes regaining popularity among customers.
It’s now so well-known that film crews have been lining up to make use of the ’50s setting, while it has also been named as one of the 50 greatest cafes on earth by The Daily Telegraph.
Mr Luporini, who has also launched the Gower Coffee Company, whose product is served in the cafe, added: “In the ’80s everyone thought the place looked old fashioned and tired but now there’s nothing like it. It’s unique.
“We’ve had Doctor Who filming here, a film about Dylan Thomas, and we’ve recently had Netflix filming here because it’s got the ’50s decor and there’s not many places like it any more.
“It has been a conscious decision not to change the decor; my dad was a believer of ‘don’t change it unless it’s broken’. We still use the same formula from when my dad was running it where I speak to everyone coming through the door and the waitresses treat the customers like family.”
Cath Williams has known Mr Luporini since he was three. She started working at The Kardomah as a waitress in 1972 when she was 17.
Now aged 64, she has mastered the art of intuition when it comes to her customers, as her boss explained that she “will see customers come in and know what they want and it will be on the table before they sit down”.
She said: “The cafe hasn’t changed at all. It’s still got the same core and heart. I think people come here because of the way it is. It’s unique and we are all friendly.
“Six family members of mine have worked here over the years.”
Diners just can’t get enough of the cafe, with many coming back day after day, year after year. 84-year-old Mair Francis makes the journey all the way from Neath nearly every day just to visit The Kardomah.
She said: “The people here are like part of my family and I can tell them my little problems and they can tell us their problems.
“I love coming here. I’ve been registered blind but they all help me here and offer to cut up my food.
“It’s like a home from home and for the last 10 years I’ve been here nearly every day.
“I come all the way from Neath and miss all the cafes on the way because this one is like a second home.”
Yvonne Ford, 80, and Pamela Jenkins, 67, both from Swansea, regularly use the cafe to catch up over a bite to eat.
They said: “We have been coming here about four or five times a week and it’s such a friendly cafe, everyone says hello. The staff are lovely and Marcus has a chat with everyone.
“It wouldn’t be The Kardomah without the decor. We love it as it is.”