Wales On Sunday

STAR-STUDDED DINING OUT EXPERIENCE

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THERE’S no getting away from the fact that money is tight right now with the cost of living rising dramatical­ly, so any hard-earned cash put aside for treats needs to be spent wisely. So when we decided to belatedly mark my other half’s milestone birthday (spent in lockdown) – and have an early celebratio­n for my forthcomin­g one – it was an easy decision to make.

We were going to spend the money we’d put by on a lunch at the Michelinst­arred The Beach House at Swansea’s Oxwich Bay rather than using it for a night or two away. People may think it’s crazy that we were willing to fork out upwards of £200 on a meal but we enjoyed every single minute, which was a true experience from start to finish.

The restaurant was opened by chef Hywel Griffiths in 2016 and gained its Michelin star three years later.

About an hour before our table was ready we thought we would call at the restaurant to see if we could enjoy a prelunch drink on the terrace looking out to sea, only to discover that it was shut as a refurbishm­ent was being carried out. But we were told our table was ready if we wanted to relax there with a drink and look through the menus, which we were happy to do.

The building work is to create a new entrance way where there will be seating for diners to enjoy canapes and drinks before being shown to their tables in future.

While the work meant we had to walk past a bit of a building site to get to the entrance and parts of the restaurant were covered up, such as a side window, it honestly didn’t spoil the experience.

You can still enjoy sea views via the windows looking directly onto the waves and a clever use of mirrors means you can glimpse the water almost anywhere you’re sitting. But you’ll also probably find yourself drawn towards the chefs hard at work in the open kitchen as they prepare your food.

As we sipped a glass of Prosecco (£9) and cold Gower Lighthouse beer (£6), which arrived with a canape tartlet each, we took a look at the menus on offer – a three-course lunch menu for £79, a six-course tasting menu for £85 and an eight-course tasting menu for £108. There are also vegetarian options.

My other half was keen to go for the lunch menu as he had a glimpse of the pork on offer but as we were at a Michelin-starred restaurant I wanted to sample a wider range of dishes so my choice was the six-course taster. As you can only go for one menu per table (for timing issues I guess) I won out.

The first thing to arrive was a box carrying slices of warm bread stuffed with laverbread and a quenelle of salted butter, which was quite literally the best bread I’ve tasted and had a beautifull­y crisp crust. I was conscious not to eat it all in one go and fill myself up before we’d started.

From the moment the Jerusalem artichoke soup arrived in small grey bowls you just knew that presentati­on was going to be key. The creamy soup was silky smooth and had a lovely subtle flavour which got your tastebuds going. The crispy garnish added texture.

The tortellini course provided the most perfectly prepared pasta, just the right side of al dente, with fresh herbs and seasoning, mushrooms and a thick glossy sauce. I thought it would be my favourite course but that was before the fish and meat arrived.

While the thickly-sliced Scottish salmon came with a jus, the fish itself was probably succulent enough without it and among the toppings were thin apple sticks which added crunch and sweetness.

After seeing the Llandeilo fallow deer being served to a fellow diner, we were more than looking forward to trying this and it didn’t disappoint. The generous slice of meat was served rare and your knife sliced through it like butter. Perfectly salted, the meat melted in your mouth, the jus added depth and the fresh asparagus was a great companion.

After so many lovely savoury offerings, it was time for dessert and we were served two of them – one lime-based and a second chocolate-based.

Once again they were both beautifull­y presented. The sharp lime was the perfect palate cleanser and the intense cold chocolate pudd with creamy ice cream and a crisp chocolate piece on top delivered a sweet ending to our meal.

As you would expect from a Michelinst­arred restaurant, the service throughout was faultless. The waiters and somelier, who recommende­d the 375ml carafe of Tramari, a softly coloured rose for £18, were very knowledgab­le and happy to answer all our questions.

We probably spent a good three hours at the restaurant and during that time we weren’t at all rushed. We loved everything from watching the chefs at work and soaking up the atmosphere to having time for a proper chat together and, of course, eating some of the best food in the country.

The bill came to £203 (service charge not included) and yes it was more than double what we would usually pay for a meal out but it was worth every penny. We left feeling like we’d had a really special experience.

The Beach House, Oxwich Beach, Swansea SA3 1LS. Tel: 01792 278277. Visit beachhouse­oxwich.co.uk

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 ?? PHIL BOORMAN ?? Michelin-starred The Beach House restaurant at Oxwich Bay, Swansea
PHIL BOORMAN Michelin-starred The Beach House restaurant at Oxwich Bay, Swansea

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