Tough time
Tech-savvy materials elevate the new performance watches
Seiko
Created in 1960, the Grand Seiko mechanical strand continues its diverse design trajectory with an emphasis on tech-smart materials and movement engineering. Here, the fusion of high-intensity titanium and black zirconia ceramic renders the 46.4mm case of the Grand Seiko Black Ceramic 25 per cent lighter than steel.
Grand Seiko Black Ceramic Limited Edition, £10,000, grand-seiko.com
Tudor
The Nasa-derived PVD coating that injects the Black Bay Dark with a particularly utilitarian feel is a sharp contrast to Tudor’s vintage-led design character. The rich, satiny finish is another draw, while the choice of a braceletor pilot-style leather strap offers a shift in tone.
Black Bay Dark, £3,050, by Tudor, tudorwatch.com
Bell & Ross
The stress-resistant, lightweight properties of forged carbon are favoured by the aeronautics industry. Now, aviation watch specialist Bell & Ross has reinterpreted the mix of heat-compressed fibres and resin for horological use. The BR-X1 Carbon Forgé has a waterresistant, single-unit case with a marbled matt finish.
BR-X1 Carbon Forgé, £15,600, by Bell & Ross, bellross.com
Hublot
Sapphire is an attractive proposition for mechanical watch designers, allowing a view of inner workings and a futuristic look. But at almost diamond strength, it needs specialist attention to fulfil its horological potential. Having sought out the experts, Hublot has ventured beyond the one-off design approach that the material typically demands to create the Big Bang Unico Sapphire All Black in an almost impossibly extensive run of 500 smoked-sapphire pieces.
Big Bang Unico Sapphire All Black, £48,000, by Hublot, hublot.com
Patek Philippe
The performance credentials are a given – screw-down crown, water-resistance to 120m, luminous hands and markers – but it is the aesthetic detail played out in opposing materials, textures and finishes that give the Aquanaut its perennially luxurious appeal.
Aquanaut 5167A, £13,750, by Patek Philippe, patek.com
Vacheron Constantin
The new Quai de l’ile may look as sleek, subtle and dress-ready as a Vacheron should, but – offered in stainless steel and with tough-wearing tungsten components – the emphasis on durability and shock-resistance lets you know it is designed for the demands of everyday use.
Quai de l’ile, £11,700, by Vacheron Constantin, vacheron-constantin.com
Panerai
As the Tuttonero, the classic Luminor 1950 diving watch adopts a more stealthy character in matt black ceramic. With zirconium oxide powder as its base, the material adopts a smooth, consistent quality, which, after a complex polishing process, results in a luxuriously tactile effect. But that belies its performance credibility: it easily defies scratches, corrosive elements and extreme temperatures.
Tuttonero Luminor 1950 3 Days GMT Automatic Ceramica, £11,600, by Panerai, panerai.com
Audemars Piguet
One of the most powerful performance timepieces, the Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph combines an armoured mix of titanium, sapphire and ceramic to subtle effect. But then, as the determined offspring of Gérald Genta’s groundbreaking 1972 Royal Oak luxury steel design, its genes are impeccable.
Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph, £33,500, by Audemars Piguet, audemarspiguet.com
A Lange & Söhne
Layers of tinted sapphire glass add fascination to the dial of the Grand Lange 1 Moon Phase Lumen. Particularly compelling is the moonphase dial, coated with luminous UV pigment before its moon and 1,164 stars are hand-engraved. In lower lighting, it glows, highlighting the layers and lending the entire dial a holograph-like quality. Once properly set, the moonphase dial is so precisely engineered to consider lunar cycles as to require a reset by just one day every 122.6 years.
Grand Lange 1 Moon Phase Lumen, £59,100, by A Lange Söhne, alange-soehne.com
Rolex
Developing new materials and integrating them into its design vision is key to the Rolex approach. The new Yacht-master’s high-performance rubber strap – the first ever offered by the Swiss marque – features a flexible metal core, offering sturdier form and a more assured fit.
Yacht-master 40, £16,650, by Rolex, rolex.com