Newspaper
Womenswear’s in chains; menswear’s all for leather; specs are lightening up; and homemade pies are on the menu
Tina Arena said it first. I’m in chains. Perhaps it’s the new challenges of restricted movement, or an eagerness to break free of domestic monotony; chains are chiming with the times.
Paul Andrew, confidently proving his might as the creative director of Salvatore Ferragamo, delivers an exquisite column dress crafted from fluid strands of flat gold chains, with loose ends that dance around the legs. It recalls the drapery of the dresses of Greek goddesses that he pinned to his mood board, and also nods to the exuberance of the Roaring Twenties. At Bottega Veneta, Daniel Lee wove chains into the necklines of knitted sweater dresses, while at Boss, buttons were replaced with chain fastenings.
Accessories, too, are linking up. JW Anderson launches its ‘Lid Chain Bag’ this autumn. Playing with proportion, the perfectly sized bag is embellished with four giant gold links. Hermès’ suede court shoe rests on a heel of silver chain link. And at Saint Laurent, Anthony Vaccarello dressed models in choker-style chain necklaces, from hefty loops to neat links, against bare skin or over featherweight blouses.
It’s been a long six months of tracksuit bottoms, flannel shirts and sweats. September signals an annual ‘back to school’ snap of the synapses and this year is no different. Those hankering for something with a little more bite will enjoy the restrained tension that comes with autumn’s leather offering.
At Louis Vuitton, Virgil Abloh was captivated by rapidly evolving workwear. His leather bomber-blazer hybrid, which gives the clever illusion of layering, will set pulses racing. When the weather closes in, you will be grateful for Prada’s durable, pull-on leather boots with a round-square toe and signature heavy sole. Marni and Salvatore Ferragamo, too, offer robust pairs.
Elsewhere, fetishist undercurrents tantalise in Dolce & Gabbana’s head-to-toe leather look and Dunhill’s new ‘Lock Bag’ inspired by the brand’s signature Rollagas lighters (perfectly proportioned for phone, wallet and hand sanitiser); Alexander Mcqueen’s black leather trench; a black leather twopiece at Lemaire; a polished chocolate brown leather blazer at Acne with whisperings of 70s counterculture; and Matthew Williams’ straight-leg leather trousers at 1017 Alyx 9SM. Just the tonic for regaining a little necessary frisson – at home and away.