ASK THE EXPERTS

The best overseas cycle for beginners; how to get off the beaten track in Bali; seeking out solitude in Snowdonia National Park – our experts answer your travel queries...

Q AHow can I discover an alternative side of busy Bali?

Katie Smith, via email

Simply step sideways. Even if you’re in one of the hectic resorts of the south – Kuta or Sanur, say – you only need to duck down an alleyway off the restaurant-lined main drags to find glimpses of traditional Balinese society, still happily functioning just behind the touristic facade.

Scale this approach up, swing left or right off any of the major highways, and chances are you’ll instantly find yourself in a scene looking like a colourised snapshot from the 1930s. You’ll need your own set of wheels to make the most of this approach.

If you’re confident, competent and careful, a rented motor scooter is an unbeatable way to get off the beaten track. Otherwise it’s very easy to rent a car with a driver for the day.

But if you want something altogether different, cross the short stretch of open sea off the southeast coast to reach Bali’s miniature sibling, Nusa Penida. Until very recently tourism was completely unknown here. Things have started to take off in the past few years, but it’s still very much an island apart, with craggy limestone landscapes and potholed lanes leading to villages where the arrival of an outsider will still cause a friendly commotion.

Tim Hannigan, author of Tuttle Publishing’s A Geek In Indonesia

QI’m quite new to the saddle but keen to do a cycling trip somewhere in France. Can you suggest any simple routes for beginners?

Simon Fletcher, via email

AThe Garonne Canal (Canal de la Garonne) is an ideal cycle for someone just starting out. It runs from Castets-en-dorthe (near Bordeaux) to Toulouse, and has a dedicated asphalt cycle track alongside it from start to finish.

The flat towpath is just under 200km long and can be cycled in easy stages. It has the advantage of being close to the Bordeaux– Toulouse railway line, should you wish to skip parts.

Bordeaux and Toulouse are two lively cities worth visiting in their own rights. They are also cycle friendly. Indeed, Bordeaux is the starting point for several relatively easy cycle tracks. One, a converted railway line, goes to the fortified bastide town of Sauveterre-de-guyenne, from which it is 15km by road to the Garonne Canal near La Réole.

Alternatively, there is a regular train service from Bordeaux centre to La Réole should you wish to avoid cycling on the road. It finishes (or starts, depending on the direction you travel) in Toulouse centre.

The route goes through beautiful countryside, passing vineyards, fruit farms, forests and wildlife reserves. The Garonne River is always near and you have magical views of it and other rivers in the system. The area is steeped in history, and you’ll see various châteaux and ancient monuments along the way. Apart from the two cities, the canal goes close to or through towns such as Marmande, Agen, Valence, Moissac and Montech, which are all brimming with cultural points of interest.

Declan Lyons, author of Cicerone’s Cycling the Canal du Midi

Q ASnowdonia can get busy. Where are the best places in the park to escape the crowds?

Jason Reid, via email

For remote mountains, rarely visited, head for the Rhinogs, particularly the northern section above Talsarnau. Moel Ysgyfarnogod has magnificent views over the Irish Sea and there are many remote swimming lakes for a dip. This was an ancient trading route for Bronze Age man and there are many remains, including standing stones and the Bryn Cader Faner stone circle. Nearby Ceunant Llennyrch gorge shelters a magical series of waterfalls and plunge pools, and a twisted, mossy woodland, regarded as the best example of temperate rainforest in Europe. You can also explore miles of dunes at Harlech beach or try walking out over the vast estuarine sand flats to Ynys Gifftan island and Portmeirion.

For high-level adventure, try the Carneddau range, with its seven peaks above 900m, good scrambling on Carnedd Dafydd and great wild camping in Cwm Caseg. Trek in from Bethesda and you won’t see a soul.

Exploring the many 19th-century slate ruins is also fascinating. Walk along the old Rhiwbach tramway from Blaenau Ffestiniog to the mine remains and caverns of Diphwys Casson and Cwt-y-bugail. Or try the horseshoe route around the Croesor valley, up Cnicht and down through ghostly Rhosydd.

Cwm Pennant valley, near Porthmadog, is also enchanting. Follow the road along the stream all the way to the very end, then ascend through the old ruins of the Prince of Wales quarry, for access to the dramatic Nantlle ridge.

Daniel Start, author of Wild Things Publishing’s Wild Guide Wales and the Marches: Hidden Places, Great Adventures and the Good Life